jericho: where the humidity haunts your every move

i'm in jericho and it's april or something, but the weather feels like november in london. cold, damp, and a constant drizzle that makes everything look like a watercolor painting left out in the rain. the air is so thick you could chew it, and it gets into your bones. i just stepped outside and the humidity wrapped around me like a wet blanket that never dried. i checked my app and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. seriously, if you hate humidity, skip this place in spring.

i got here from amman on a bus that smelled like diesel and regret. the border crossing was a lesson in patience, with soldiers who looked bored enough to sculpt their names into the concrete. but i'm here now, in a city that claims to be the oldest continuously inhabited one, though right now it feels like the most forgotten. the streets are dusty, the buildings are a mix of ancient stone and concrete blocks, and everyone seems to be in a slow dance with time. i've been wandering for hours, and my sneakers are coated in a fine red dust that won't come off.

if you're planning a trip, check out TripAdvisor's list for the big sites - i did the usual, like the sycamore tree and the mount of temptation, but honestly, after two, they blur. what's more interesting is the market, where you can buy spices that smell like a thousand recipes and dates that are so sweet they make your teeth ache. i heard from a vendor that the best date shake is at a stall near the east gate, but he might charge you extra if you look like a tourist. so, play it cool. also, someone whispered to me that the hinnom valley hike is free and offers killer views, but only if you don't mind climbing over rocks.

i'm staying at a hostel called "cave hostel" - not really a cave, but the walls are so thick it feels like one. found it on Hostelworld for 120 shekels a week, which is a steal. the dorm has eight beds, and my roommate is a german guy who snores like a bear. bring earplugs, seriously. also, the wifi is sketchy, so if you need to work online, good luck. this blog has tips for digital nomads in the west bank, but it's mostly about safety, not connectivity. i wish someone had told me that the power sockets here are type c and h, so my adapter blew up in a market stall. true story.

the humidity is the real villain here. i've never experienced air so thick you could wring it out. my laundry never dries, and i'm starting to think my clothes are growing mold. someone told me that the sea of galilee is only an hour north, and it's warmer, but i'm saving that for when i have enough shekels for a taxi. until then, i'm layering like a mummy and drinking mint tea to stay warm.

neighbors-wise, amman is close but feels worlds away in terms of vibe. tel aviv is a dream of beaches and nightclubs, but from jericho, it's like another planet. if you get tired of the desert silence, nablus is an hour north with a crazy old city and the best kanafeh in the region - or so i'm told. i've been debating a day trip, but the bus schedules are a mystery, and i hate wasting time on uncertainty.

i've been eating cheap: street falafel for 5 shekels, hummus with pita for 10, and shwarma for 15. Yelp has some reviews, but most are in hebrew, so i just follow the crowds. the place with the longest line usually wins. last night, i tried a restaurant that came recommended by a local, and it cost me 40 shekels for a meal that left me hungry again an hour later. so, not all tips are gold.

here's a map of my current location, in case you're navigating by intuition:

that blue dot is me, floating in the jordan valley. the map makes it look straightforward, but trust me, the roads are a labyrinth of one-ways and confused tourists. i got lost three times today, and each time, someone offered to "help" for a fee. so, carry a paper map or offline google maps.

yesterday, i walked to the outskirts and saw fields with olive trees and a stone building that looked ancient.

that photo is from unsplash, but it captures the weird greenery amidst the dust. in reality, the grass is sparse and brown, but the olive trees are majestic.

later, i found a spot by what might be the jordan river, but it was muddy and smelled like wet earth.

that's another unsplash shot - doesn't this look like it could be here? the actual site had more goats and fewer tourists.

and this concrete building near the water?

perfect for the jericho aesthetic - brown, watery, and cloudy. the water is more like a puddle, but it's called a river, so who am i to judge?

i'm writing this on my phone with 10% battery, so i need to wrap up. if you come to jericho, pack a raincoat even though it's the desert, bring cash for the markets, and don't trust anyone who says "special price" with a wink. also, learn a few arabic phrases - it gets you farther than you think. i've been using "marhaba" and "shukran" like a pro, and it's saved me from overpaying a few times.

this place is a mess, but in a good way. like my journal, it's all blurred edges and unexpected moments. that's the vibe. i might stay another day or hitchhike to amman. who knows? that's the beauty of being broke and spontaneous.

You might also be interested in:

• https://votoris.com/post/cebus-stash-vintage-treasures-sticky-heat
• https://votoris.com/post/how-i-accidentally-became-xalapas-most-confused-indie-film-scout
• https://votoris.com/post/healthcare-quality-in-owerri-top-hospitals-medical-centers-2
• https://votoris.com/post/lisbons-a-blur-rain-pastel-buildings-and-seriously-strong-coffee-8
• https://votoris.com/post/tokyo-when-the-weather-feels-like-its-mocking-you