Florence, Italy: Lost My Mind (and Found Some Gelato)

okay, so. florence. right? everyone raves. renaissance this, duomo that. and yeah, it’s…fine. but it’s also a swirling vortex of tourists and pigeons and the faint scent of leather that clings to your clothes for days. i just checked and it’s a sort of damp, grey afternoon, like someone spilled a lukewarm cup of tea over the sky. hope you like that kind of thing.

I’m a touring session drummer, which means I’m used to chaos. But this? This was a different breed of chaos. My gig fell through - some last-minute festival cancellation - so I’m here, wandering around, trying to absorb the “culture” and mostly just feeling vaguely overwhelmed. I’m supposed to be scouting for new rhythms, new sounds, but all I’m hearing is the click-clack of a million selfie sticks.

I spent a good hour yesterday just staring at the Ponte Vecchio. It’s…a bridge. With shops on it. Selling mostly overpriced jewelry. Someone told me that the shops used to be butcher shops, which is a much more interesting story. I’m trying to find the pulse of the city, you know? The thing that isn’t in the guidebooks. It’s proving difficult.

I did find gelato. That’s a win. Pistachio. Obviously. I’m pretty sure I ate three scoops. Don’t judge me. It was a rough day. I also stumbled upon this tiny little leather workshop tucked away on a side street. The guy inside, Marco, was covered in dust and smelled like tanned hide, but he was hammering away at a beautiful bag. I wanted to ask him about his process, but my Italian is…limited. Mostly just “ciao” and “gelato.”

I’m staying in a little Airbnb near the Oltrarno district. It’s…rustic. Let’s go with rustic. The shower pressure is questionable, and the wifi cuts out every five minutes, but it’s cheap. And the view from the window is pretty decent - a tangle of terracotta roofs and laundry lines. If you get bored, Siena and Pisa are just a short drive away.

Here’s a few things I’ve picked up, mostly from eavesdropping on other tourists (sorry, not sorry):

Don’t go to the Uffizi Gallery without booking tickets in advance. Seriously. The line is insane. Check out TripAdvisor for tips.
Apparently, the best lampredotto (a Florentine street food specialty) is at a stand near the Mercato Centrale. I haven’t tried it yet. I’m a little scared. Yelp has some recommendations.
* I overheard a couple arguing about whether the David statue is “overrated.” The woman said it’s “just a big naked dude.” I’m not sure I agree, but I also don’t have strong feelings about it.

Honestly, I’m not sure I’ll be back. It’s beautiful, sure, but it’s also exhausting. I need to find a place with a little less…everything. Maybe somewhere with fewer tourists and more…pigeons? No, wait. Scratch that. I’m thinking of checking out some local music venues. I found a forum Florence Music Scene that might have some leads. Or maybe I’ll just wander around and get lost again. That’s usually how I find the good stuff. I also saw a listing for a vintage clothing store on Etsy that I might check out tomorrow. Wish me luck. I’m going to need it.

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