Dust & Echoes: Lost in Essaouira, Morocco

okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm mint tea. essaouira. it’s… intense. like, aggressively intense. i landed yesterday and immediately felt like i’d stepped into a slightly faded postcard. the wind’s a real jerk, constantly trying to rip your hat off and generally reminding you that you’re a tiny speck in a massive, salty ocean. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 371466 and 1728110399 - don’t ask, i don’t know where those numbers came from. they just… appeared. it’s unsettling.

person reading book on brown and beige textile

I spent the morning wandering the medina, which is basically a labyrinth designed to confuse tourists and sell you argan oil. seriously, everyone sells argan oil. it’s a whole thing. i snagged a small bottle - mostly for the novelty, tbh. the walls are painted in these crazy shades of blue and white, and the air smells like spices, fish, and something vaguely…goat-y. it’s a sensory overload in the best way, i guess.

I stumbled upon this little cafe tucked away in a corner - ‘Le Petit Coin’ - and ordered a tagine. it was… okay. a little dry, a little salty, but hey, it’s Morocco. the guy behind the counter, he just stared at me the whole time. creepy, but also kinda cool.

Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Casablanca is just a short drive away. I heard that the seafood stalls near the harbor are legendary, but also that the seagulls are vicious. someone told me that the best way to avoid the seagulls is to wear a bright orange hat. take it or leave it.

I’m staying in this ridiculously charming riad - ‘Riad Dar Essaouira’ - it’s all intricate tilework and hidden courtyards. the owner, Omar, is a total character. he keeps offering me dates and telling me stories about his family. he’s convinced that the numbers 371466 and 1728110399 are a sign of good luck. i’m not entirely sure I buy it, but it’s definitely adding to the weirdness of the whole trip.

Here’s the gear list, because apparently, that’s what people want:

Camera: Canon EOS R6 (duh)
*Lenses: 35mm, 50mm, 70-200mm - always need more lenses
*Notebook & Pen: For capturing all the chaotic thoughts
*Sarong: Essential for covering up and blending in (sort of)
*Sunscreen: Seriously, don’t be a fool
*Wet Wipes:* Because, Morocco.

silhouette of child sitting behind tree during sunset

I spent the afternoon exploring the ramparts - the views are insane. you can see the Atlantic stretching out forever, and the wind is even stronger up there. it’s a bit of a climb, but totally worth it. i almost lost my hat again.

I overheard a group of French tourists arguing about the best place to get mint tea. one of them said that ‘Café des Épices’ was the only place to go, but the other one vehemently disagreed. it was a full-blown debate, complete with hand gestures and dramatic sighs. it was… entertaining.

person reading book on brown wooden table taken at daytome

I’m heading out to the beach now to watch the sunset. i heard that the light is particularly beautiful here, but also that the waves can be pretty powerful. i’m not taking any chances.

Seriously, if you’re thinking about visiting Essaouira, do it. just… be prepared for the wind. and the argan oil. and the slightly unsettling numbers.

Here’s a link to TripAdvisor for some more info: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g298307-Essaouira_Massa_Draa_Region-Vacations.html

And Yelp for some restaurant reviews: https://www.yelp.com/search?keyword=restaurants&location=Essaouira%2C+Morocco

Oh, and check out this local forum for tips: https://www.reddit.com/r/Essaouira/

Okay, I’m officially out of coffee. Time for another dose of that sweet, sweet Moroccan caffeine.

Dust & Echoes: Lost in Essaouira, Morocco

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About the author: Silas Dean

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