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Damascus, Syria: Dust, Dates, and a Whole Lotta Unexpected

@Oscar Finch3/7/2026blog
Damascus, Syria: Dust, Dates, and a Whole Lotta Unexpected

okay, so. damascus. where do i even begin? i’m a botanist, right? I spend my days cataloging ferns and arguing about the proper pH level for orchids. and then i end up here. 167541… that’s the number on my visa, apparently. feels important. 1760587307… no clue. maybe a serial number for a particularly stubborn date palm?


I just checked and it’s… a sort of pewter sky right now, clinging low and heavy. not exactly sunshine and roses, but it’s got a certain… grit to it. the air smells like dust and something sweet, like overripe figs. i’m not complaining, honestly. it’s real.

Man in traditional arabic clothing with brown thobe.

Man in traditional saudi arabian clothing

Man in traditional saudi arabian clothing


I’m staying in this tiny guesthouse near the Old City. it’s… charmingly chaotic. the plumbing is… an experience. but the owner, Fatima, makes the best mint tea i’ve ever had. seriously. i’d sell my entire collection of rare ferns for another cup.

Someone told me that the souks are a must-see, but to watch your pockets. apparently, there’s a whole network of… let’s just say enthusiastic vendors. i’m trying to be careful, but it’s hard when everything is so vibrant and tempting. I found this incredible spice merchant - he had saffron that smelled like sunshine and roses. I bought way too much.

I spent a good chunk of yesterday wandering around the *Citadel of Damascus. It’s… massive. Layers and layers of history piled on top of each other. Roman ruins, Crusader castles, Umayyad palaces… it’s a bit overwhelming, to be honest. I felt like i was walking through a textbook. I’d recommend checking out TripAdvisor for some background info before you go - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g297662-d153373-Reviews-Damascus_Citadel-Damascus_Damascus_Province.html.

“Don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘special price’ on carpets,” a very drunk man told me at a cafe last night. “They’ll charge you double and then tell you it’s a family heirloom.”


I’m trying to learn a little Arabic. it’s… challenging. but the locals are incredibly patient. I managed to order a falafel sandwich today without completely embarrassing myself. small victories, right?

If you get bored, Homs and Aleppo are just a short drive away. I’m not planning on going anytime soon, though. Damascus has enough to keep me occupied for now.

I’ve been documenting all the plants I can find. The resilience of life here is astonishing. Even in the midst of all this… everything, there are flowers pushing through the cracks in the pavement. I’m hoping to write a paper about it when i get back.

I found a really interesting forum about local plants and gardens - https://www.syriaflowers.com/. It’s mostly in Arabic, but Google Translate is my best friend.

“The best hummus is at Abu Hassan’s,” someone whispered to me, leaning in conspiratorially. “But go early. It sells out fast.”


I’m also trying to find some good local art. I saw a few interesting murals in the Al-Midan* district. I’m hoping to connect with some street artists. I’m checking out Yelp for recommendations - https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=street+art&find_loc=Damascus%2C+Syria.

The weather, as i mentioned, is… subdued. The temperature is hovering around 11.48 degrees Celsius, feels like 9.62. Pressure is 1015, humidity is 36. Ground level is 940. Not exactly beach weather, but it’s… manageable.

I’m not sure how long I’ll be here. But for now, I’m embracing the chaos. It’s a far cry from my perfectly curated fern collection, but it’s… real. And sometimes, that’s all you need.

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About the author: Oscar Finch

Optimist by choice, realist by necessity.

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