coron, palawan: where my laptop got salty and i stopped caring (a digital nomad's apology)
so i’m in coron, palawan, and my laptop smells like salt. not metaphorically, like ‘oh the ocean breeze!’ but actually, physically, like someone spilled a margarita on a keyboard. it’s this humid little hell, 26.6°c but the humidity’s sitting on my chest like a damp parrot. i just checked and it's... the same all day, every day, hope you like that kind of thing. my ‘office’ is a stool at a cafe where the fan points at the wall and the wifi has the temperament of a moody god.
i came here for the ‘digital nomad vibe’-laughable. the only thing nomading is my patience, drifting from spot to spot chasing a signal that’s basically a rumor. i’m typing this with one hand while the other fends off a gecko who’s convinced my screen is a bugs buffet. *coron town feels like a construction site dreaming of being a postcard. you’ve got your bang-for-buck guesthouses next to resorts charging ‘paradise tax’. i heard from a guy working at mamas pizza (yes, really) that the kayangan lake tour boats get so packed by 8am you might as well be commuting on the freeway. ‘go at 5am,’ he whispered, ‘or don’t go at all.’ tripadvisor reviews called it ‘magical,’ but my booty sore from the bangka ride says ‘grueling.’
let’s talk friends. my neighbors are a dutch couple debating which island has ‘better’ sand (it’s all sand, people), and a french software engineer who just yelled ‘i need a silent disco!’ into his phone. if you get bored, el nido is just a speedboat away, but i’ve been warned-that’s where digital detox goes to die in style. someone told me that the barrakuda fish near the skeleton wreck have bite marks that match tourist ankle bracelets from 2017. yelp says ‘exciting marine life!’ i’m calling it a gang.
the real hustle here isn’t the coworking spaces (one closed because ‘the view was too distracting’), it’s the endless negotiation for a cold sari-sari store bottle of water. 50 pesos? last week it was 45! you haggle like your life depends on it, and it does-because without hydration, your brain just evaporates into the humidity. oh, and the power goes out. not like, ‘oops the bulb died.’ more like ‘the entire grid has taken a nap.’ last night i was trying to submit an article by moonlight, literally, as my laptop battery gave a faint, dying groan.
i’ve started measuring time by boat trip departures. 7:30am: coron bay tour. 9am: twin lagoon assault. 1pm: sleep. 3pm: beg the cafe owner not to turn the fan off. there’s a rhythm here, but it’s not mine. i overheard two backpackers at latik restaurant arguing about whether to do the calauit safari or just rent a scooter to get lost. ‘get lost?’ one scoffed. ‘there’s only one road.’ that’s the spirit.
i’m not mad, i’m just… dissolved? the weather’s doing that slow-cook on my brain. i came to ‘work remotely’ and now my main remote is the distance between my hammock and the bar. i read a local board that said ‘coron is for slowing down.’ yeah, slowing down until your deadlines float away like a deflated pool toy. but then the sky does this thing at sunset where the limestone cliffs blush pink, and you think, maybe i should just… stay. just let the salt corrode the laptop, let the tides decide my schedule.
i’m not sure i’ll ‘fix’ my laptop. maybe i’ll just write my next Medium post on a napkin and mail it. the ghosts of productivity past are here, whispering ‘deadline!’ but the guy playing ukulele at the pier is louder. he’s got a song about a mermaid who stole a fisherman’s heart and his 4g signal. sounds about right.
p.s.: DO NOT trust the ‘speedy’ boat tour captain who says he knows a ‘private’ beach. he knows the same beach as everyone else. book through the tourism office*, even if it feels like a government conspiracy. your back will thank you. maybe.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/phnom-penh-sticky-rice-street-art-and-seriously-humid-air
- https://votoris.com/post/wandering-through-venice-at-dawn
- https://votoris.com/post/mexicali-the-honest-truth-about-air-quality-and-living-here
- https://votoris.com/post/the-best-coworking-spaces-and-wifi-cafes-in-concepcin-no-fluff-just-facts-2
- https://votoris.com/post/average-salary-in-vinh-are-the-wages-worth-the-costs-3