Beirut, Honestly? It's a Whole Situation.
okay, so beirut. it’s…a lot. i wasn’t really planning on beirut, to be honest. it was a last-minute thing, a detour after a gig in *tel aviv fell through. i’m a touring session drummer, right? always chasing the next soundcheck, the next dimly lit club, the next questionable catering rider. and sometimes, that leads you to places you never expected.
first impressions? chaotic. beautifully, wonderfully chaotic. like someone took all the energy of a thousand different cities and just…dumped it here. the streets are a maze, honking cars are a constant soundtrack, and the smell of coffee and something vaguely floral hangs in the air. i just checked and it’s…a bit damp, actually, with the air feeling like a lukewarm hug. The weather report said fifteen degrees, but it feels like fourteen, which, honestly, is fine. i’ve played in colder venues.
my hotel is in gemmayzeh, which is…loud. but in a good way? i think? the walls are thin, and i swear i can hear my neighbor practicing the oud at all hours. if you get restless, byblos and tripoli are just a quick jaunt up the coast. i’ve been meaning to check out the Roman ruins, but honestly, i’ve mostly been wandering and getting lost. which, as a drummer, is kind of my specialty.
someone told me that the best falafel in the city is from a tiny stall near the bourj - apparently, you have to queue for like, an hour, but it’s worth it. i haven’t tried it yet, but i’m willing to risk a hangry meltdown for good street food.
food-wise, it’s incredible. seriously. i’ve been living on mezze - hummus, baba ghanoush, tabbouleh… it’s a vegetable overload, and i’m not complaining. i found a little place on a side street, Em Sherif, that’s supposed to be fancy, but i just snuck in and ordered takeout. no regrets.
people here are…complex. incredibly resilient, fiercely proud, and always up for a conversation. i overheard a group arguing about politics in a cafe* earlier - it was passionate, to say the least. i don’t understand a word of arabic, but i could feel the energy. i heard that the nightlife is legendary, but i’ve mostly been too exhausted from travel to fully participate. though i did stumble into a bar in mar mikhael that had a live band playing some seriously funky stuff.
gear-wise, i’m traveling light. just my sticks, in-ear monitors, and a surprisingly effective noise-canceling headset. essential for surviving airport layovers and questionable hotel rooms. i’ve been using Booking.com to find places to stay, and it’s been mostly reliable. i also rely heavily on TripAdvisor for finding hidden gems.
a local warned me about the traffic. apparently, it’s a free-for-all. he said, and i quote, “just close your eyes and pray.” i’m seriously considering taking up walking.
overall? beirut is…challenging. it’s not a relaxing vacation. it’s a sensory overload, a cultural immersion, a constant reminder that the world is a big, messy, beautiful place. and honestly? i’m kind of loving it. check out Time Out Beirut for events. i'm off to find that falafel now. wish me luck. and maybe earplugs.
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