Long Read

Bahawalpur: Dust, Dates, and a Seriously Sweaty Situation

@Zara Walsh3/14/2026blog

okay, so bahawalpur. it wasn't on the itinerary, not even close. i was supposed to be chasing light in *lahore, but a busted van (long story involving a questionable mechanic and a lot of hand gestures) and a seriously tempting bus ticket later, here i am.


first impressions? hot. like,
really hot. i just checked and it's…a furnace out there right now, honestly. the air is thick enough to chew, and my camera lens keeps fogging up. the weather report said 35.51 celsius, feels like 32.94, pressure’s at 1005, humidity’s a pathetic 13%, and the sea level is…well, it’s bahawalpur, not maldives. the ground level is 998, which honestly doesn’t tell me much. it just feels dry.


i’m a freelance photographer, usually bouncing between gigs, shooting weddings one week, street style the next. this detour is…unexpected. i’m staying in a little guesthouse near the
bahawalpur museum. it’s basic, but the chai is strong and the owner, uncle farid, keeps trying to set me up with his niece. politely declining, obviously.

the city itself is…well, it’s growing on me. it’s not postcard-perfect, it’s real. dusty streets, chaotic traffic, and the constant scent of dates. seriously, dates everywhere. i’ve eaten so many dates i think i’m turning into one. i found a great little date shop on Farid Gate - check out some reviews on Yelp.

someone told me that the best biryani in town is at a place called ā€˜Al-Habib’, but you have to go before noon or it’s all gone. Apparently, it’s a local legend.


i spent yesterday wandering around the derawar fort, about an hour outside the city. it’s…massive. seriously, a huge, crumbling brick fortress in the middle of the desert. it’s a bit of a trek, but worth it for the views. TripAdvisor has some good info on getting there. i overheard a group of
students complaining about the lack of shade - bring water, people!


the people here are incredibly friendly, though. everyone wants to know where i’m from and what i’m doing. i’ve been offered countless cups of chai and invitations to family dinners. it’s overwhelming, but in a good way. if you get bored,
multan and lodhran* are just a short, bumpy bus ride away.

i also heard a rumor that there’s a hidden underground bazaar near the old city, but no one seems to know exactly where it is. a local warned me to be careful if i find it - apparently, it’s a bit dodgy. This forum might have some clues.

i’m trying to capture the essence of this place, the grit and the beauty. it’s not easy. the light is harsh, the dust is relentless, and my brain is slowly melting from the heat. but there’s something about bahawalpur that’s… captivating. it’s a place that gets under your skin.


i’m thinking of heading to the lal suhanra national park tomorrow. apparently, it’s a good place to spot wildlife. or at least, to sweat profusely while looking for wildlife. i’ll let you know how it goes. and if anyone has any recommendations for air conditioning, please send them my way. seriously. Here's a local guide.


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About the author: Zara Walsh

Loves data, hates clutter.

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