Ankara After Dark (and a Seriously Weird Humidity Thing)
okay, so ankara. it wasn't on my radar, honestly. i ended up here because a friend of a friend - a *clarinet player, naturally - needed someone to drive his van from istanbul. long story. and honestly? it’s kinda growing on me. it’s not…flashy. it’s not trying to be. it just is.
first off, the weather. i just looked and it’s… clinging to everything right now, like a damp blanket. eight point eight degrees, but feels like seven point five? it’s a sneaky chill. the air is thick enough to chew, seventy-three percent humidity, which is just… a choice. i’m pretty sure my hair has a personality of its own now. the pressure’s a bit wonky too, 1023, but honestly, i’m not a meteorologist, so who knows what that means.
i’m a freelance photographer, and i’m always on the lookout for interesting light, and Ankara… it’s got a certain mood. a lot of concrete, a lot of history, and a lot of people just living. i spent yesterday wandering around Hamamönü, the old city. it’s touristy, sure, but it’s also genuinely charming. cobblestone streets, little cafes, and a surprising number of cats. i found a tiny little tea house - Çıkrıkçılar Yokuşu - and the owner, this amazing woman named Ayşe, just kept bringing me tea and baklava. she didn’t speak much english, and my turkish is… limited to “merhaba” and “teşekkür ederim,” but we managed.
someone told me that the best kebab in Ankara isn’t in a fancy restaurant, it’s from a street vendor near the train station. apparently, you have to ask for ‘Ali’s special.’ i haven’t tried it yet, but i’m willing to risk food poisoning for a good kebab.
i’ve been staying in an Airbnb in Çankaya. the neighborhood is… quiet. very quiet. if you get restless, Eskişehir is just a couple of hours away by train. my host, Mehmet, is a retired history teacher. he’s been giving me impromptu lectures on the Hittites and the Roman Empire. it’s exhausting and fascinating.
i overheard some guys at a coffee* shop talking about a hidden bar somewhere in Kızılay. apparently, it’s unmarked and you need a password to get in. i’m trying to track it down, but so far, no luck. i also read on a local forum (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g293953-Ankara_Ankara_Province_Central_Anatolia-Vacations.html) that the Anıtkabir (Atatürk’s mausoleum) is stunning at night. i’m planning to go tomorrow.
i checked Yelp (https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Restaurants&find_loc=Ankara%2C+Turkey) and the reviews for Trilye are consistently good, but someone warned me it’s super expensive. Apparently, it’s where all the diplomats go. I also saw a post on a Reddit thread (https://www.reddit.com/r/Turkey/) about a really cool vintage market that happens every Sunday in Kavaklıdere. I'm definitely checking that out.
honestly, Ankara is a bit of a slow burn. it doesn’t hit you over the head with its beauty. you have to look for it. you have to talk to people. you have to drink a lot of tea. and you definitely have to embrace the humidity. it’s weird, it’s wonderful, and it’s definitely not what i expected. https://www.goturkiye.com/ has some good info if you're planning a trip.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/studying-in-karbal-the-real-deal-on-universities-and-student-life
- https://votoris.com/post/durham-nc-where-the-humidity-hugs-you-and-the-coffees-strong-probably
- https://votoris.com/post/10-surprising-facts-about-helsinki-you-probably-didnt-know-and-why-you-should-totally-go
- https://votoris.com/post/cork-city-the-rainy-real-and-ridiculously-charming-irish-escape
- https://votoris.com/post/eskiehir-for-families-heres-the-real-deal-on-parks-schools-and-whether-youll-sleep-at-night