Yerevan, Armenia: Cold Air, Warm Hearts, and a Lot of Questions
so here i am, sitting in a little cafe in yerevan, typing with freezing fingers because the weather outside is basically "why did i leave my hotel room." it's 3.6°c right now, which feels like 0.55°c, and the humidity is sitting at 82%. not exactly beach weather, but hey, at least it's not raining. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. personally, i'm wearing three layers and still shivering, but the locals? they're out there in light jackets like it's springtime. respect.
i've been wandering around the city for a couple of days now, and yerevan is...interesting. it's not the kind of place that hits you over the head with beauty-it's more like a slow burn. soviet-era buildings mixed with colorful murals, cafes with people arguing loudly over coffee, and a general vibe that feels both ancient and modern at the same time. someone told me that the cascade complex is a must-see, so i hiked up there yesterday. the view from the top? pretty epic. you can see the entire city sprawled out, with mount ararat looming in the background like a silent guardian.
but let's talk about the people. armenians are some of the most hospitable folks i've ever met. i got lost trying to find a restaurant (because of course i did), and a random guy on the street not only gave me directions but walked me there. he even refused to let me buy him a coffee afterward. i heard that this kind of thing happens all the time here-like, it's just how people are. makes you wonder why other places can't be more like this.
food-wise, yerevan is a dream. i've been eating my way through the city, and so far, the standout has been dolma. i mean, i've had dolma before, but the armenian version? next level. tender grape leaves stuffed with rice and meat, served with yogurt. i could eat this every day and not get bored. also, if you're into coffee, you have to try the armenian coffee. it's strong, it's thick, and it'll keep you awake for hours. perfect for those late-night wandering sessions when you're trying to figure out where the heck you are.
if you get bored, *gyumri and vanadzor are just a short drive away. i haven't been to either yet, but i've heard gyumri has this raw, unpolished charm that's worth checking out. and vanadzor? apparently, it's the gateway to some pretty cool hiking trails. but honestly, i'm in no rush to leave yerevan. there's something about this city that keeps pulling me back, even when i'm freezing my butt off.
one thing i will say: yerevan isn't for everyone. if you're looking for a polished, touristy experience, this might not be your jam. but if you're into authenticity, good food, and meeting people who will literally give you the shirt off their back, then yeah, come here. just bring a warm jacket. and maybe a thermos of coffee.
anyway, that's my messy, sleep-deprived take on yerevan. i'm off to find another cafe and warm up. maybe i'll even try to learn a few armenian phrases. or maybe i'll just point at the menu and hope for the best. either way, it's all part of the adventure.
p.s. if you're planning a trip, check out tripadvisor for some solid recommendations. and if you're into photography, yelp* has a few hidden gems listed that are worth a visit. happy travels!
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/rajkot-wandering-a-messy-morning-after-the-train
- https://votoris.com/post/guatemala-city-aint-what-you-think-it-is
- https://votoris.com/post/sunrise-on-the-hurghada-promenade
- https://votoris.com/post/strongthe-crimson-pulse-beneath-barcelons-concrete-veins-where-gauds-ghosts-meet-aerosol-stormsstrong
- https://votoris.com/post/diyarbakr-where-the-walls-are-black-and-my-spirit-is-rough