São Paulo: Humidity, Street Art, and a Whole Lotta Noise
okay, so. i’m back. from são paulo. and i’m pretty sure my hair hasn’t recovered. it’s currently doing this weird frizz thing that defies all known science. but honestly? worth it. mostly.
let’s just say, the air is…present. i just checked and it's clinging to everything like a damp hug. ninety-four percent humidity. feels like twenty-two point oh five. you’ve been warned. i’m a touring drummer, so i’m used to sweaty gigs, but this is a whole other level. my cymbals are practically weeping.
I spent most of my time wandering Vila Madalena. seriously, just get lost there. it’s a maze of tiny streets covered in incredible street art. like, really incredible. some of it’s obviously commissioned, some of it’s just…popping up. i saw this one mural of a giant toucan eating a pineapple, and i swear it winked at me. probably just the heat.
food. oh god, the food. i ate so much. i’m pretty sure i gained five pounds just from pastel de nata. seriously, find a pastelaria and just…commit. i stumbled upon this tiny place on Rua Aspicuelta, and the pastel was crispy, cheesy, and utterly divine. I’m already dreaming about it. Check out some reviews on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=pastel&find_loc=São+Paulo,+SP.
I overheard some drunk guy at a bar complaining that the best coxinha in the city is a secret and you have to know someone who knows someone to get it. apparently, it’s a family recipe passed down through generations. i tried to pry information out of him, but he just kept slurring about “the matriarch” and “the perfect dough-to-filling ratio.”
“The matriarch guards the recipe with her life. Don’t even think about asking for it.”
Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Campinas and Santos are just a short hop away. I didn’t make it out there this time, but I’m already planning a return trip.
I also spent a ridiculous amount of time just people-watching in Ibirapuera Park. it’s massive. like, seriously massive. you could get lost in there for days. there were families having picnics, couples holding hands, guys playing capoeira…it was just a constant stream of life. I even saw a guy trying to teach his parrot to play the ukulele. it wasn’t going well.
Someone told me that the traffic is absolutely insane. and they weren’t kidding. like, biblical levels of traffic. i took an Uber once, and it took me an hour to go like five blocks. i’m sticking to the metro from now on. it’s surprisingly efficient, though.
I’m trying to be all responsible and give you some “pro-tips,” so here’s a list:
Learn a few basic Portuguese phrases. seriously. it goes a long way.
*Be aware of your surroundings. pickpocketing is a thing. keep your valuables close.
*Embrace the chaos. São Paulo is a sensory overload. just go with it.
*Drink lots of water. the humidity will dehydrate you faster than you think.
*Check out TripAdvisor for some hidden gems: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g303633-São_Paulo_State-Vacations.html
*Don’t be afraid to try new things. the food, the music, the art…it’s all amazing.
I also found this really cool forum with local events and recommendations: https://www.guiaveja.com.br/. It’s all in Portuguese, but Google Translate is your friend.
Honestly, São Paulo is a city that gets under your skin. it’s loud, it’s chaotic, it’s humid, and it’s absolutely unforgettable. i’m already planning my next trip. maybe i’ll finally find that secret coxinha.
Oh! And I heard that the nightlife in Vila Olímpia is wild*. Apparently, there are clubs that stay open until sunrise. I didn’t make it there myself, but it’s definitely on my list for next time. You can find some reviews here: https://www.timeout.com/sao-paulo/bars-and-restaurants/best-nightclubs-in-sao-paulo
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