São Paulo: Humidity, Hustle, and a Whole Lot of Concrete
okay, so i just landed back from são paulo and my brain feels like it’s been put through a washing machine. not a gentle cycle, either. more like…industrial strength. i’m a freelance photographer, and honestly, i went chasing light and ended up finding a city that just doesn’t stop.
first off, the air. it’s…present. i just checked and it’s clinging to everything right now, a warm blanket you didn’t ask for. 27.9 degrees, feels like 28.89, humidity at 56%. basically, you’re walking around in a lightly flavored steam room. bring a *towel. seriously. i’m not kidding.
my hotel was in vila madalena, which is…loud. in a good way? maybe? it’s all street art and tiny bars spilling onto the sidewalks. i spent a solid afternoon just wandering, getting lost, and trying not to trip over anyone. someone told me that the best feijoada is at a little place called Mocotó, but you need to get there before noon or you’re out of luck. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g303506-d724999-Reviews-Mocot_o-Sao_Paulo_State_of_Sao_Paulo.html
“apparently, if you try to haggle at the municipal market, they just laugh at you. like, a full-on, belly laugh.”
that’s what the barista at this tiny coffee shop told me. i was trying to learn some portuguese, and he was…patient. mostly. the coffee, by the way, was incredible. i’m a sucker for a good espresso, and this place delivered. i think it was called Coffee Lab? https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Coffee+and+Tea&find_loc=São+Paulo
getting around is…an experience. the metro is efficient, but packed. like, sardine-level packed. i took a few ubers, which were surprisingly affordable, but traffic is a nightmare. i heard that the bus system is even worse, but i didn’t have the courage to try it. if you get bored, campinas and santos are just a short bus ride away.
“don’t, and i mean don’t, leave your phone unattended on a table. it will vanish. poof.”
that was a warning from a guy i met at a bar. he seemed…knowledgeable. i kept my phone glued to my hand after that. the city feels safe enough during the day, but at night, you need to be aware of your surroundings. https://www.lonelyplanet.com/brazil/sao-paulo/safety
my gear? well, i basically lived out of my backpack. a sony a7iii*, a 35mm lens, a portable hard drive (because losing photos is my biggest fear), and a ridiculous amount of sunscreen. oh, and a small fan. seriously, the fan was a lifesaver. i also packed a universal adapter, because brazil uses some weird plug situation. you can find more info on travel forums like https://www.reddit.com/r/SaoPaulo/.
“the paulista avenue on sundays is like…a giant, open-air party. you have to see it.”
and he was right. it was insane. street performers, food stalls, cyclists, families…it was a total sensory overload. i spent hours just wandering around, taking photos, and soaking it all in. são paulo isn’t a pretty city, not in the traditional sense. it’s gritty, chaotic, and overwhelming. but it’s also incredibly vibrant and full of life. it’s a city that gets under your skin and stays there. i’m already planning my return trip.
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