Long Read

San Miguel de Allende: Dust, Dogs, and a Whole Lotta Mezcal

@Marcus Thorne3/15/2026blog
San Miguel de Allende: Dust, Dogs, and a Whole Lotta Mezcal

okay, so. san miguel. where do i even begin? i’m a touring session drummer, right? I’m used to chaos, to being thrown into new cities with a few hours to figure things out. but this… this was different. it’s got this… weight to it. a beautiful weight, but still.


I just checked and the air feels like a warm hug that’s slowly turning into a slightly damp blanket. sixteen degrees, give or take. pressure’s steady, humidity’s low - perfect for sweating through your shirt while trying to navigate cobblestone streets, apparently.

a white car parked in a parking lot next to other cars


I landed here for a gig - a wedding, actually. super fancy, lots of floral arrangements, the whole shebang. but honestly? the best part wasn’t the gig itself. it was just… wandering. getting lost. stumbling into tiny cafes with the best coffee i’ve ever had. seriously, i’m going to need to find a way to smuggle some beans back home. check out this place, Cafe Lavanda, on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g150774-d1866883-Reviews-Cafe_Lavanda-San_Miguel_de_Allende_Guanajuato.html.

I spent a good chunk of my first day just people-watching in the Jardin Principal. It’s packed with tourists, sure, but there’s also this undercurrent of… local life. Old men playing dominoes, kids chasing pigeons, vendors selling everything from hand-woven blankets to churros. It’s a sensory overload in the best possible way.

Someone told me that the best way to experience San Miguel is to ditch the tourist traps and just get lost in the side streets. And they were right. I found this incredible little art gallery tucked away on a quiet corner - Galería Arte de Razón. https://www.yelp.com/biz/galeria-arte-de-razon-san-miguel-de-allende. The owner was super friendly and let me hang out for ages, just chatting about art and music.

“Don’t trust the street tacos near the cathedral,” a very drunk guy slurred at me last night. “They’ll give you… something.”


I’m not sure what “something” is, but I’m taking his advice. I’ll stick to the restaurants with a bit more… reputation. Speaking of which, I heard that Aperi is the place to go for a fancy dinner. https://aperisanmiguel.com/. Apparently, reservations are essential.


My gear list for this trip was surprisingly minimal. I mean, I’m a drummer, so usually I’m hauling around a ton of stuff. But for this gig, I just needed my sticks, my headphones, and a good pair of walking shoes. Oh, and a hat. The sun is brutal here.

Sticks: Vic Firth 5A - can’t go wrong.
*Headphones: Sennheiser HD 280 Pro - gotta hear those cues.
*Shoes: Blundstone boots - comfy and stylish.
*Hat: Wide-brimmed straw hat - essential for sun protection.
*Water bottle: Seriously, stay hydrated.

If you get bored, Querétaro and Guanajuato are just a short drive away. I might take a day trip to one of them before I head back home.


Oh, and the dogs! There are
so many* dogs here. Stray dogs, pampered dogs, dogs sleeping in doorways… they’re everywhere. Most of them seem pretty chill, but just be aware of your surroundings. Check out this local forum for more info on the stray dog situation: https://www.sanmigueldeallende.com/forum/.

Honestly, San Miguel de Allende is a place that gets under your skin. It’s chaotic, it’s beautiful, it’s a little bit dusty, and it’s definitely worth a visit. Just… maybe skip the street tacos near the cathedral.


You might also be interested in:

About the author: Marcus Thorne

Sharing knowledge so you don't have to learn the hard way.

Loading discussion...