puerto plata, dominican republic: what the locals don't tell you
puerto plata, dominican republic: what the locals don't tell you
puerto plata-it's not just for cruise ships and all-inclusive resorts. i rolled in on a rickety guagua, backpack half-zipped, and immediately regretted not bringing more sunscreen. the humidity hit me like a warm, wet blanket. someone told me that the best empanadas are sold out of a garage near the fort, and honestly? they weren't wrong.
i just checked and it's 26°c there right now, feels like 26°c, humidity at 78%. hope you like that kind of thing. personally, i was sweating through my shirt before i even found a colmado.
"don't trust the taxi drivers at the airport," a guy named carlos whispered to me at a beach bar. "they'll charge you triple."
he was right. i walked five blocks and got a ride for a quarter of the price. always walk five blocks.
if you get bored, santiago and cabarete are just a short drive away. i heard santiago has a killer coffee scene, and cabarete is basically kite-surfing central. but puerto plata? it's got soul. the malecón at sunset is worth every mosquito bite.
*the fortaleza san felipe is supposedly haunted. i didn't see any ghosts, but the view of the atlantic is legit. someone else told me that the best time to visit is right before closing, when the guards are too lazy to check tickets. i didn't try it, but hey, maybe you're braver than me.
cascada damajagua is a must if you're into jumping off cliffs into natural pools. i chickened out after the second waterfall, but my new friend maria did all seven. she also told me that the guides sometimes pocket your tip if you're not watching. not sure if that's true, but keep your eyes open.
plaza independencia at night is where the magic happens. street food, live music, and enough people-watching to fill a novel. i met a guy selling handmade bracelets who claimed he once played bass for a famous merengue band. who knows? but his stories were better than the bracelets.
"the best piña colada is at a place called 'lulú's,' but don't ask for directions-just follow the smell of rum."
that advice was solid. lulú's is a literal hole-in-the-wall, but the drinks? dangerous.
cable car up to isabel de torres is touristy, but the view is worth it. someone told me that the statue at the top is a smaller version of the one in rio. i didn't fact-check that, but it sounds right.
if you're into museums, the amber museum is small but fascinating. i overheard a couple arguing about whether amber is a crystal or a fossil. spoiler: it's fossilized tree resin. you're welcome.
where to stay: i crashed at a hostel near the beach for about $15 a night. it was basic, but the owner, juan, made the best breakfast i had all week. check out hostelworld for options.
where to eat: besides lulú's, try la familia restaurant for fresh seafood. yelp says it's hit or miss, but i hit it on a good night.
what to avoid: the guys selling cigars on the street. they're pushy, and the cigars are probably fake. also, don't buy anything from the guys with the monkeys-it's exploitative.
puerto plata isn't perfect, but that's why i loved it. it's messy, loud, and full of surprises. just like me, i guess.
tags:* #puertoplata #dominicanrepublic #travel #messy #authentic
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