New Orleans: Humidity, Ghosts, and a Whole Lotta Weird
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on caffeine and regret. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 25.13 feels like 25.94, temp min 24.43, max 26.12, pressure 1012, humidity 86. it’s sticky. like, aggressively sticky. i’m pretty sure i’m sweating out a new ecosystem in my boots. i landed in New Orleans yesterday, and honestly, it’s a sensory overload in the best possible way. it’s not pretty, not in a postcard kind of way, but it’s real.
I’m a touring session drummer, so my priority was finding a decent jam spot, and let me tell you, the music scene here is absolutely thumping. I stumbled into a place called ‘The Crooked Note’ - a tiny, smoky bar in the French Quarter - and ended up playing a set with a guy who looked like he’d wrestled a banjo and lost. It was glorious chaos.
I’m staying in a little Airbnb in the Marigny, which is…well, it’s a neighborhood. It’s got a vibe. It’s got a lot of street art, which is cool, and a surprising number of vintage record stores. Someone told me that the best beignets in the city are at Cafe Du Monde, but I heard that from a guy who was clearly hopped up on chicory coffee. I’m taking him at his word.
Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Houston and Lafayette are just a short drive away. There’s this woman, Delphine, who runs a tarot reading booth on Royal Street. She’s a total character - wears a feather boa and claims to talk to the spirits of jazz musicians. I asked her about my future, and she said, ‘Prepare for a lot of unexpected drum fills.’ Deep.
I spent today wandering around Jackson Square, dodging tourists and trying to avoid getting pickpocketed. It’s a beautiful space, all cobblestones and fountains, but it’s also incredibly crowded. I managed to snag a photo of a street artist painting a mural of a zombie pirate - pretty epic, tbh.
I also checked out the Voodoo Museum - it’s…intense. Lots of creepy dolls, dried herbs, and stories about curses. I’m not usually into that stuff, but it was strangely fascinating. I overheard gossip that the museum’s curator is actually a descendant of Marie Laveau, the Voodoo Queen. Wild.
Someone told me that the best way to experience New Orleans is to get lost. Seriously, just wander around, follow your nose, and don’t be afraid to say ‘yes’ to anything that sounds interesting. You might stumble upon something amazing. Or a really bad crawfish boil. Either way, it’ll be a story.
I’m trying to keep my expenses down, so I’ve been hitting up the local farmers markets for cheap eats. I found this amazing stall selling jambalaya - it was seriously good. I also found a great deal on a vintage drumstick case at a flea market. Gotta keep the gear game strong.
I’m planning on checking out a ghost tour tonight - New Orleans is supposedly one of the most haunted cities in America. I’m not a huge believer in ghosts, but it’s worth a shot. I heard that the LaLaurie Mansion is particularly active. Apparently, it used to be the home of Madame Delphine LaLaurie, a socialite who tortured and murdered her slaves. Disturbing stuff.
Here’s a few links to help you plan your own trip:
TripAdvisor - New Orleans
Yelp - New Orleans Restaurants
* New Orleans Tourism Board
Okay, I’m officially out of energy. Time for another coffee (black, obviously) and maybe a little more wandering. This city is exhausting, but in a good way. It’s like a beautiful, chaotic dream.
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