Naga City: A Comedian's Sweaty Odyssey Through Humidity Central
i got to naga city after a 12-hour bus ride that felt like a sitcom where the punchline never comes. i'm calling it the 'sweatpants of life' because nothing fits when the humidity's at 86%. just checked the weather app: 23.1°c but feels like 23.71? i think the app is messing with me. it's like walking through a bowl of warm soup. anyway, that's the forecast for you.
the city's a patchwork of *jeepneys painted with everything from jesus to space rockets. i hopped on one that had a mural of a t-rex wearing sunglasses. the driver was blasting reggaeton at full volume. i tried to make a joke about it to the passenger next to me, but she just stared and said 'bakit?' and i lost all confidence.
anyway, here's a snapshot of my surroundings (according to google):
after i got off, i wandered into a sari-sari store that sold everything from instant noodles to lucky charms. i asked the auntie for a cold drink, and she handed me a sago't gulaman that tasted like a sweet, chewy hug. i downed it in one go and immediately felt like i could take on a monsoon. (i later learned that monsoon season is actually later, but the humidity already feels like one.)
i had adobo for lunch. for those who don't know, adobo is chicken or pork simmered in soy sauce, vinegar, and garlic. in naga, they sometimes add coconut milk, making it richer. it's dangerously good. i also tried kare-kare, an oxtail and vegetable stew in peanut sauce, with a side of bagoong (fermented shrimp paste) that could wake the dead. i'll embed a pic of that adobo i had, it looked like a masterpiece:
the lady who served it told me her lola's recipe has been in the family for generations. i told her i'd write a joke about it. she said 'make it funny or i'll charge you extra.' i think that's a deal.
someone told me that the tambay (the guys who sit on the sidewalk all day) are actually the city's best source of gossip. i sat with them for an hour and heard that the mayor's nephew runs a diskoteK that's only open on full moons. i don't know if it's true but i'm checking it out tonight. also, a local warned me about the aswang that supposedly roams the barangay after dark. i laughed until i saw a shadow move. turned out to be a stray dog.
i found a Yelp page for the adobo place, rated 4.5 stars with comments like 'the best estrogen-free stew i've ever had' (what does that even mean?). here's the link: Yelp - Mang Juan's Adobo. i also checked TripAdvisor for the top attractions, and it suggested the 'sweat lodge' that's actually just a public bathroom with no AC: TripAdvisor - Naga City Attractions. a local travel forum, PinoyTravel.ph, has a thread titled 'How to Survive Naga's Humidity Without Melting' that's pretty handy: PinoyTravel.ph - Naga City Survival Guide. and Bicol Eats wrote about the best Bicol Express in town: Bicol Eats - The Spicy Side of Naga.
need a break from the heat? the whale sharks of donsol are a short tricycle-and-bus combo away (about an hour). or you could head to legazpi city, where mayon volcano puts on a show. it's a two-hour bus ride, but trust me, the view is worth the sticky seats. here's a shot of mayon in all its glory (if it's not covered by clouds):
i'm here trying to write a comedy special titled 'humidity: the silent heckler'. my setlist includes bits about how the air is so thick you can bite it, and how tricycle drivers have a sixth sense for potholes. the open mic i signed up for got cancelled because the venue's aircon gave up. apparently it couldn't handle the humidity either. i performed my set to an empty room anyway. i think my sari-sari store auntie was the only audience, but she gave me a thumbs up while restocking instant coffee.
i just checked the forecast and it's going to stay this way all week. 23 degrees, 86% humidity. they say the rain will come next week, but i'm not holding my breath. i'm sweating through my notebook as i type this, and my ink is running. maybe that's why my jokes are getting blurry.
naga city, you've been a weird, humid, delicious adventure. i might not have discovered the secret to world peace, but i did discover that adobo tastes better when you're drenched in sweat. and i'm pretty sure that's a metaphor for something. anyway, if you ever find yourself here, look for the jeepney* with the t-rex on it and say hi. i'll be the one trying to wipe condensation off my microphone. until next time, keep it messy.
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