Lisbon’s a Blur: Rain, Pastel Buildings, and a Whole Lotta Lost Socks

okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm espresso. 2597365… that’s the number of pastel pink tiles i’ve stared at today. 1566155015 - that’s the timestamp of when i almost tripped over a stray cat while trying to get a decent photo of the Jerónimos Monastery. it was 35.68 degrees, feels like 35, humidity was clinging to me like a damp towel, and the pressure was… well, let’s just say my ears were popping. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.

Lisbon. it’s… intense. like, a beautiful, chaotic, slightly sticky intense. i landed yesterday and immediately felt like i’d stepped into a Wes Anderson film directed by a caffeinated squirrel. the streets are a labyrinth of cobblestones, and everyone seems to be speaking a rapid-fire Portuguese that sounds like a beautiful, complicated argument. i’m pretty sure i accidentally ordered a plate of fried sardines at 3 am. no regrets.

I’m staying in Alfama, which is basically a giant, crumbling, incredibly charming hillside. it’s full of tiny restaurants blasting fado music and people shouting at each other across alleyways. it’s… a lot. i found this little place called “O Velho Eurico” - someone told me that the bacalhau à brás is legendary, but it’s also perpetually crowded. i’ll probably brave it tomorrow. i’m trying to avoid tourist traps, you know? i’m aiming for the ‘real’ Lisbon, the one that smells faintly of salt and old wine.

My gear situation is a disaster. i’ve lost at least three socks, a lens filter, and my sense of direction. i’m pretty sure my camera bag is actively trying to escape my backpack. it’s a beautiful mess, honestly.

Here’s the breakdown of my current state of affairs:

Camera: Canon R6 - still working, mostly. fingers crossed.
*Lenses: 35mm, 50mm, 70-200mm - the holy trinity of street photography. (and a slightly cracked 16-35mm, don’t ask).
*Backpack: A ridiculously oversized North Face thing that’s probably too big for me but holds everything.
*Notebook: Filled with scribbled notes, half-finished sketches, and a concerning amount of coffee stains.
*Shoes: Blisters. Lots and lots of blisters.

I spent the afternoon wandering around the LX Factory, which is this converted industrial complex filled with cool shops, restaurants, and street art. it’s a bit of a hipster haven, but in a good way. i grabbed a ridiculously overpriced iced coffee and watched people work on their laptops. i overheard gossip that the new rooftop bar, “A Brasileira,” has the best views of the city - but the cocktails are extortionate. check out their Yelp page: https://www.yelp.com/biz/a-brasileira-lisboa

Then, i stumbled upon this tiny little tile workshop - it was run by an old man named Manuel who’s been making tiles for over 60 years. he showed me the process of hand-painting the intricate designs, and it was mesmerizing. i bought a small tile as a souvenir - it’s probably going to end up in my luggage, but it’s beautiful. i’m thinking of checking out the National Tile Museum - https://www.museudourado.pt/en/ - to learn more about the history of Portuguese tiles.

I’m also trying to explore beyond the main tourist areas. i took a tram ride up to Belém, where i visited the Belém Tower and the Jerónimos Monastery. it was crowded, but the architecture is stunning. someone told me that the Pastéis de Belém* are a must-try - and they were right. seriously, get some.

I’m heading to Sintra tomorrow - apparently, it’s a fairytale town with castles and palaces. i’m hoping to escape the city for a day and get lost in the hills. if you get bored, [Cascais] are just a short drive away.

And finally, a little something i found on a local forum:

“Don’t trust the guys in the striped shirts near the Rossio Square. They’ll try to sell you fake watches and then disappear into the crowd. Seriously. Just… don’t.”

Seriously, take that with a grain of salt. Or a whole bag of salt.

I’m off to find a decent place to eat and maybe attempt to dry my socks. wish me luck.

Check out TripAdvisor for some more Lisbon recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g189119-Lisbon_Lisbon_District_Portugal-Vacations.html

And if you're looking for a good place to grab a coffee, I've heard that [Nicolau Lisboa] is pretty solid. https://www.nicolau-lisboa.pt/en/

Lisbon’s a Blur: Rain, Pastel Buildings, and a Whole Lotta Lost Socks

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About the author: Silas Dean

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