La Paz, Bolivia: Altitude, Alpaca Sweaters, and a Whole Lotta Confusion
okay, so la paz. where do i even begin? i’m elara, by the way, and i’m a botanist. mostly. right now, i’m mostly covered in dust and questioning all my life choices. i just checked and it’s drizzling a bit, a sort of damp, clinging chill that seeps into your bones. not exactly tropical, is it?
I came here chasing rumors of some incredibly rare high-altitude orchids. orchids! you know, the kind that bloom for like, five minutes a year and smell faintly of sadness and old books. didn’t find them, obviously. found a lot of other stuff though. mostly altitude sickness and a deep appreciation for oxygen. seriously, the air is thin up here.
I’m staying in this…charming…hostel in the *Miraflores neighborhood. It’s got character, let’s put it that way. The walls are painted a shade of orange that actively assaults your eyeballs, and the showers are…an experience. But the people are nice, and it’s cheap. Which is important, because my orchid-hunting budget is rapidly dwindling.
“Don’t trust the cholitas with the coca leaves,” a very drunk tourist mumbled to me at the hostel bar last night. “They’ll lace ‘em with something. Just sayin’.”
I’m not sure what to make of that. I mean, coca leaves are a big deal here, right? Apparently, they’re used for everything from altitude sickness to…well, who knows? I’m sticking to bottled water for now.
I spent a day wandering around El Alto*, the sprawling market city just above La Paz. It’s…intense. Like, sensory overload times ten. Mountains of textiles, piles of fruit I’ve never seen before, and vendors shouting prices in a language I barely understand. I bought an alpaca sweater. It’s itchy, but it’s warm, and it’s a souvenir. Plus, it’s ridiculously cheap. You can find some good deals on TripAdvisor if you're looking for something similar. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g297653-Activities-La_Paz_Cochabamba_Department.html
Someone told me that the cable car system (Mi Teleférico) is the best way to get around. And they were right. It’s incredible. You get these panoramic views of the whole city, clinging to the mountainside. It’s a little terrifying, but mostly amazing. Check out Yelp for reviews - people seem to love it. https://www.yelp.com/biz/mi-teleferico-la-paz
I tried some local food. Salteñas, which are like savory pastries filled with meat and potatoes. Delicious. Also, api, a warm corn-based drink. It’s…an acquired taste. I also heard that the markets are a great place to find authentic dishes, but be careful about where you eat. Apparently, some of the stalls aren’t exactly up to code.
If you get bored, Oruro and Potosí are just a short drive away. I’m thinking of heading to Lake Titicaca next. Apparently, the scenery is breathtaking. I’m also looking into some local botanical societies - maybe I can actually find some of those elusive orchids after all. I found a forum with some interesting discussions about local flora. https://www.bolivianflora.org/
“The museums are all just dusty old relics,” a local warned me. “Don’t waste your time. Go see the witches’ market instead.”
I’m not sure about that. I do love a good museum. But the witches’ market…that sounds intriguing. I’ll probably check it out. It’s definitely a unique experience. I’m also considering a day trip to Valle de la Luna - the Moon Valley. Apparently, the landscape is otherworldly. https://www.lonelyplanet.com/bolivia/la-paz/attractions/valle-de-la-luna/a/poi-sig/401876
So yeah, la paz. It’s chaotic, it’s confusing, it’s high up, and it’s definitely not boring. Would I recommend it? Absolutely. Just…bring your oxygen tank.
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