Busan Blues & the Case of the Disappearing Ajummas
okay, so busan. it’s…a lot. i’m a freelance photographer, and honestly, i usually chase light, not humidity, but a friend of a friend needed someone to cover a weird little indie film festival here, and well, rent’s due.
first off, the weather. i just glanced outside and it’s…actively trying to become the ocean, apparently. like, a persistent, clinging dampness that seeps into your soul. the forecast said six point one degrees, but it feels like someone’s gently misting you with a fridge. the air pressure is kinda heavy too, like the city itself is sighing.
this place is built on hills. seriously, my calves are screaming. i spent yesterday trying to get a decent shot of Gamcheon Culture Village - it’s pretty, all those colorful houses stacked on top of each other, but navigating it with a camera bag and a mild existential crisis is…challenging. i found a decent coffee shop though, called “Cafe Lennon” - surprisingly good Americano. Check out some reviews on Yelp.
someone told me that the ajummas (older women) who usually run the street food stalls near Jagalchi Market have been disappearing. like, one day they’re there, yelling about the freshest octopus, the next…gone. apparently, there’s a rumor about a secret society of competitive kimchi makers. i don’t even want to know.
my accommodation is…an experience. it’s a goshiwon, basically a tiny room with a bed and a desk. it’s cheap, though, and the landlady, Mrs. Park, keeps trying to feed me pickled radish. she doesn’t speak much english, but her intentions are pure. if you get bored, Gyeongju is just a short train ride away, apparently it's full of ancient temples.
filming’s been…interesting. the director is obsessed with slow motion shots of pigeons. i’m not kidding. and the lead actor keeps trying to give me acting tips. i’m a photographer, dude. i point and click.
Camera: Sony a7iii (obviously)
*Lens: 35mm f/1.4 (my go-to)
*Backup: A surprisingly reliable Fujifilm X100F
*Rain Cover: Essential. Seriously.
*Snacks:* Korean convenience store snacks are a gift from the gods.
I overheard someone at a bar saying that Haeundae Beach is totally overrun with tourists this time of year. Apparently, it’s like fighting for a square inch of sand. TripAdvisor has some photos. I think I’ll stick to the quieter, slightly grungier beaches further south.
I also heard that the seafood at Jagalchi Market is amazing, but you have to be prepared to haggle. And apparently, some of the vendors will try to sell you live octopus. I’m good, thanks. Here's a local forum discussing the market.
Honestly, busan is exhausting. but it’s also…compelling. it’s a city that doesn’t apologize for being itself. it’s loud, messy, and smells faintly of fish and kimchi. and i think i’m starting to like it. maybe. i need more coffee.
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