Baku, Azerbaijan: Honestly, It's a Whole Thing
okay, so baku. it’s…a lot. i’m a freelance photographer, and usually, i’m all about the golden hour and perfectly framed shots, but this place? it throws that whole concept out the window. it’s beautiful, chaotic, and smells faintly of exhaust and something sweet i can’t quite place.
i just checked and it’s…damp, with a breeze that feels like it’s coming straight off the *caspian sea, hope you’re prepared for that. the numbers they gave me - 9.63 degrees, feels like 6.13 - don’t even begin to cover it. it’s that kind of cold that seeps into your bones, you know? the air pressure is kinda heavy, like the city itself is sighing.
i spent most of yesterday wandering around icheri sheher, the old city. it’s like stepping back in time, but with souvenir shops and guys trying to sell you carpets. seriously, so many carpets. i overheard someone at a tea house - a proper one, with samovars and everything - saying that you should never accept the first price offered for a carpet. apparently, it’s an insult to the seller.
“They’ll start at like, five hundred manat, and you gotta haggle them down to…well, whatever you’re comfortable with. But definitely haggle.”
i’m staying in a little apartment near the flame towers. they’re…intense. like, really intense. giant, futuristic structures that shoot flames into the night sky. it’s kinda cool, kinda terrifying. my neighbors are mostly families, it seems. if you get bored, sheki and gabala are just a quick marshrutka ride away, which is what the locals call their minibuses.
food-wise, it’s amazing. i had qutab - a savory pancake filled with meat and greens - from a street vendor, and it was life-changing. someone warned me about the street food hygiene, though. “Eat where the locals eat,” they said, “and if it looks questionable, just…don’t.” good advice, probably. i also tried plov (pilaf), which is everywhere. it’s a national obsession, apparently. you can find some good reviews on Yelp.
i’ve been trying to get some decent shots of the maiden tower, but it’s always crowded. it’s a bit of a tourist trap, honestly, but you kinda have to see it. i heard a drunk guy in a bar telling everyone that the tower is actually a secret entrance to an underground city. take that with a grain of salt, obviously.
i’m thinking of heading to gobustan national park* tomorrow to see the ancient rock carvings. i’ve read some stuff about it on TripAdvisor. apparently, it’s a bit of a trek to get there, but worth it. i also found this local forum (Baku Expat) which has some useful info about transport.
honestly, baku is exhausting. it’s visually overwhelming, culturally complex, and constantly surprising. but it’s also…captivating. i’m not sure i fully understand it yet, but i’m definitely glad i came. and if you’re looking for something a little different, a little off the beaten path, i’d say give it a shot. just pack a warm jacket and your bargaining skills. and maybe a stomach for adventure. you can find more information about Azerbaijan on Lonely Planet.
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