Baku, Azerbaijan: Honestly, It's a Whole Thing
okay, so baku. it’s…a lot. i landed with code 161931 flashing in my brain (don’t ask, it’s a long story involving a lost airline ticket and a very insistent baggage handler) and immediately walked into air that felt like someone was gently blowing a hairdryer on my face. the weather report said 3.98 degrees celsius, felt like 0.64, and honestly? that felt about right. a damp, slightly confused warmth. pressure was 1041, humidity 39%, sea level also 1041, and ground level 1017 - i have no idea what any of that means, but it sounded important at the time.
i’m a vintage clothes picker, so i’m always on the hunt for hidden gems, and baku did not disappoint. the old city, *icheri sheher, is a labyrinth of tiny streets crammed with shops selling everything from hand-knotted carpets to slightly terrifying soviet-era memorabilia. i spent a solid afternoon getting hopelessly lost and bargaining for a silk scarf that i probably overpaid for, but honestly, the experience was worth it.
someone told me that the tea houses are where all the real gossip happens, and they weren’t wrong. i overheard a heated debate about the best place to get qutab (a savory pancake) - apparently, there’s a rivalry between two stalls near the maiden tower. i ended up trying both, and honestly, they were both pretty amazing. you can find some reviews on TripAdvisor if you're into that sort of thing.
the modern part of baku is…well, it’s aggressively modern. think futuristic skyscrapers, flame-shaped towers (seriously), and a general vibe of “we have a lot of oil money.” it’s a bit jarring after wandering around the ancient streets of icheri sheher, but it’s also kind of fascinating. i spent an evening wandering along bulvar, the waterfront promenade, and people-watching.
i heard from a local that the heyday bazaar is a good place to find unique souvenirs, but be prepared to haggle. apparently, the vendors expect it, and they’ll probably try to charge you double the price if you don’t. i also stumbled upon a really cool little art gallery showcasing local artists - check out this local art board for more info.
my neighbors were…distant. i stayed in an airbnb in the yasamal district, and everyone seemed pretty preoccupied with their own lives. if you get bored, shaki is just a short marshrutka ride away, and i've heard it's beautiful.
i tried to find a good coffee shop, but it was a struggle. i’m a bit of a coffee snob, and most places seemed to serve something that tasted suspiciously like instant coffee. i eventually found a place called “art cafe” that had a decent latte, but it was overpriced and full of tourists. you can find some options on Yelp.
honestly, baku is a city of contrasts. it’s ancient and modern, chaotic and calm, beautiful and…slightly unsettling. it’s not a place you’ll easily forget. i’m already planning my next trip, but i’m definitely bringing a phrasebook and a stronger coffee filter. and maybe a compass. i got lost a lot*. you can find more information about the city on Azerbaijan Tourism.
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