tunis: the city that never stops dripping (and i dont mean rain)

i landed in tunis not knowing what to expect, just that my friend had sent me a cryptic text: 2473540. the humidity hit me like a wet blanket the moment i stepped out of the airport. i checked the weather app and it's sitting at a cool 15°C, but feels like 15.08°C because the humidity's at 100%. basically, it's like walking through a bowl of soup with a slight breeze. not exactly my ideal graffiti conditions, but hey, i’m here to document the street art scene, not to complain.

*tunis has this raw, gritty energy that’s perfect for spray can enthusiasts. the medina is a maze of narrow alleys where ancient walls meet modern murals. i started wandering around the Place de la Kasbah, and that’s where i saw it: a huge piece with the number 2473540 sprayed in neon orange. an old guy sipping tea nearby saw me staring and said, “someone told me that’s the call sign for the underground studio. you should dial it if you want to see real art.” i didn’t have a sim card, but i noted it down.

the map below shows the general area i covered. you’ll see the main spots clustered around the old city.

after a few hours, the humidity started messing with my phone. i ducked into a tiny café for some mint tea and a falafel. the owner, a guy with tattoos covering his arms, started chatting about the local scene. he mentioned that the best graffiti isn’t in the touristy zones but in the industrial district near the port. “i heard that if you go there at night, the walls come alive with light projections,” he whispered, as if sharing state secrets. he also warned, “don’t trust the guy selling ‘art’ on the corner of Rue Ali Bach Hamba. his stuff is stolen.”

i took his advice and headed to the port area. the streets were lined with abandoned warehouses, each covered in layers upon layers of paint. street art here tells stories of rebellion, love, and the Tunisian revolution. i stumbled upon an open studio where a collective called “Darija” works. they let me in after i mentioned the number 2473540. inside, artists were prepping for a show. one of them, a woman with purple hair, handed me a flyer with another number scribbled: 1788911754. “that’s the code for our pop‑up exhibition tomorrow night. text it to this burner phone and you’ll get the location.” so random, but that’s how things roll here.

the weather hasn’t changed much. still hovering around 15°C, humidity 100%, pressure steady at 1022 hPa. it’s the kind of damp that makes your sketchbook pages curl. i’ve started carrying my drawings in a plastic bag. if you come, always pack a waterproof notebook.

now, if you get bored of tunis, carthage is just a short tram ride away. those ancient ruins are a stark contrast to the urban chaos, but totally worth it. also, the blue‑and‑white village of sidi bou said sits on a hill overlooking the sea; you can get there by train in about 20 minutes.

i’ve collected a few links that helped me out:

- tripadvisor's top attractions in tunis
- yelp's best coffee spots
- the tunis street art blog (english)
- a local insider guide

i also heard a rumor about a hidden bar called le nid (the nest). you have to find the unmarked door near the grand souk, then knock three times and say “1788911754” to get in. i tried it, and it was a blast - cheap craft beer and jam sessions until dawn. definitely check it out if you’re into low‑key spots.

here’s a photo of one of my favorite murals in the medina. the artist captured the city’s mood perfectly - a mix of tradition and chaos.

and this one’s from the port area at dusk. the colors are insane when the wet surfaces reflect them.

overall, tunis is a city that keeps you on your toes. the weather’s weird, the humidity’s relentless, but the art, the people, and the secrets hidden in plain sight make it a must‑visit for anyone who digs authentic urban culture. just remember: carry a plastic bag for your art supplies, dial 2473540 if you need a studio, and never trust a smiling tourist with a “special” offer*. see you on the streets.

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