Tokat, Turkey: A Photographer's Wet Dream

tokat, turkey. man, what a place to get lost. i just checked and it's a damp 7.8 degrees outside with humidity that's basically breathing down your neck. hope you like that kind of thing. if you get bored, samsun and amasya are just a short drive away. someone told me that the best baklava in the region is found in a tiny hole-in-the-wall near the old castle. but also, i heard that the locals are super wary of outsiders, so maybe don't go snapping pictures of their grandmas without asking. something a local warned me about: the cobblestones in the old town are murder on your camera bag. bring a strap that won’t slip.

i’ve been shooting nonstop, but the light here is tricky. it’s either too harsh in the middle of the day or disappears behind the hills too quickly. *the old castle is worth the climb, though. the view of the city spread out below is worth every step. and the way the light hits the stone at sunset? chef’s kiss. but i’m getting ahead of myself. let me show you what i’m talking about.

this is from one of the mornings. the fog rolling in over the mountains... it was like the city was breathing. i spent two hours just waiting for the right moment, and then the sun broke through. i’ve got to say, the tokat tourism board says the best time to visit is spring, but i’m kind of loving the quiet of winter. fewer tourists, more light for me.

and then there’s the food. oh man, the food. i found this place called kahveci arif* that’s been around since forever. the coffee is strong, the pastries are fresh, and the owner doesn’t speak a word of english, but he gives you the best seat by the window. yelp says it’s a hidden gem, and they’re not wrong.

this is the main bazaar. it’s chaos. people yelling, spices in the air, old men playing backgammon. i tried to capture the energy, but it’s impossible. you just have to be there. and if you go, make sure to check out the old town reviews on tripadvisor because they give you a heads up on the best photo spots.

honestly, i could stay here forever. there’s something about the way the light falls on the old minarets, the way the laundry hangs between buildings, the way the locals look at you like you’re from another planet. it’s raw, it’s real, and it’s making me a better photographer.

so if you’re a photographer looking for a place that won’t hold your hand, come to tokat. but pack a good lens and a warm coat. it’s cold, but it’s worth it.

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