Tehran on a Tuesday (and a Whole Lot of Dust)

okay, so tehran. it wasn't on the list, honestly. i was supposed to be in istanbul, chasing down a vintage cymbal for a friend (long story, involves a very specific shade of tarnished brass and a questionable eBay seller), but flights got…complicated. ended up with a ridiculously cheap ticket here, and figured, why not?

first impressions? *dust. everywhere. like, a fine, gritty film on everything. and the air…it’s not bad, exactly, just…present. i just checked and it’s hovering around fifteen degrees, but feels a bit cooler, like your bones remember winter even if your brain doesn’t. the pressure’s a bit wonky, honestly, feels like my ears need a reset. humidity’s low, which explains the slightly sandpaper-like feeling in my nostrils.

i’m a touring session drummer, so i’m used to weird schedules and even weirder venues. but tehran is…different. it’s not unfriendly, just…intense. everyone seems to be moving at a hundred miles an hour, even when they’re just standing still. i spent yesterday wandering around the Grand Bazaar, which is less a market and more a labyrinth designed to test your patience and your bartering skills. i swear i walked in circles for a solid hour trying to find my way back to the entrance.

someone told me that the best dizi (a traditional lamb and bean stew) is at a tiny place near the bazaar, but you have to know the owner’s cousin to get a table. apparently, it’s worth the hassle. i haven’t managed to locate the cousin yet.

i’ve been staying in a little guesthouse in the Parvan neighborhood. it’s…basic. but the owner, a woman named Fatima, makes the best tea i’ve ever tasted. she doesn’t speak much english, and my farsi is limited to “hello” and “thank you,” but we communicate through gestures and a lot of smiling. if you get bored, the cities of Karaj and Rey are just a short drive away, Fatima told me, waving her hand vaguely towards the horizon.

i overheard a couple of guys arguing about football at a chai khaneh last night. it devolved into a full-blown shouting match, complete with dramatic hand gestures and accusations of questionable parentage. apparently, the rivalry between Persepolis and Esteghlal is serious. i also heard that the traffic on Valiasr Street is legendary. like, biblical levels of congestion. i haven’t braved it yet, but i’m bracing myself.

i tried to find a decent drum shop, but no luck so far. apparently, the music scene here is…underground. a local musician i met (through Fatima, naturally) said that you have to know the right people to find anything good. he recommended checking out a few places on this forum, but warned me that the information might be outdated.

i did find a fantastic little record store, though. it’s called “Vinyl Paradise” (a bit on the nose, i know) and it’s crammed with everything from classic persian pop to obscure jazz. the owner, a guy named Amir, is a total music obsessive. he spent a good hour showing me his collection of vintage 78s. you can find it on Yelp.

honestly, tehran is growing on me. it’s chaotic, dusty, and a little bit overwhelming, but it’s also incredibly vibrant and full of surprises. i’m starting to think this unplanned detour might be the best thing that’s happened to me in ages. i’m going to check out the Golestan Palace tomorrow. i heard it’s stunning, but also ridiculously crowded. Here's a guide. i’ll let you know how it goes. and if i ever find that cousin for the dizi*, i’ll be sure to report back.

oh, and one more thing: someone warned me about the taxi drivers. apparently, they have a tendency to “forget” to turn on the meter. just a heads up. you can find more info on this local board.

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