Tangier Dreams & The Constant Hum of Almost-Rain
okay, so tangier. it’s…a lot. i wasn’t prepared for a lot. i’m a freelance photographer, usually chasing light in abandoned buildings or trying to make gas stations look poetic, and this place just throws poetry at you, whether you want it or not.
i just checked and it’s…holding onto a grey mood, like a teenager refusing to smile for a family photo. the temperature’s hovering around fourteen degrees, but it feels like thirteen-point-something, which, honestly, is just rude. the air pressure is doing its thing, and the humidity is trying to convince you it’s a tropical rainforest. it’s not. it’s tangier.
i spent yesterday wandering the *medina, getting hopelessly lost (which, let’s be real, is the point). it’s a labyrinth of tiny streets, overflowing with spices, leather goods, and people trying to sell you things. i’m not a huge shopper, but i did end up with a ridiculously ornate teapot i absolutely don’t need. it was a bargaining experience, let me tell you. i think i overpaid, but honestly, the guy’s story about needing to feed his goats was compelling.
someone told me that the best mint tea in the city is at a place called Café Hafa, but it’s always packed with tourists. i went anyway. it was packed, but the view of the Strait of Gibraltar is insane. worth the elbowing, maybe. TripAdvisor has a bunch of photos.
i overheard a couple of guys arguing about the best place to get tagine. one swore by a tiny, unmarked place near the Grand Socco, saying it was “the real deal.” the other insisted that Restaurant El Tangerino was the only way to go. Yelp has some reviews. i’m leaning towards the unmarked place, because, you know, adventure.
the neighbors here are…loud. in a good way, mostly. lots of music, shouting, and the constant call to prayer. it’s a sensory overload, but i’m starting to get used to it. if you get bored, Chefchaouen is just a few hours away by bus, apparently. everyone keeps saying it’s the “blue pearl” of morocco. i’m not sure about pearls, but i’m definitely intrigued.
i tried to find a quiet spot to edit photos, but it’s…challenging. there’s always someone wanting to chat, offer you tea, or try to sell you something. it’s exhausting, but also kind of wonderful. i think i’m learning to embrace the chaos.
“Don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘free’ tour. They’ll just take you to their cousin’s rug shop.”
that’s what a woman at my riad warned me. she seemed pretty serious. i’ve definitely been steered towards various shops by overly friendly locals. it’s all part of the experience, i guess.
i’m staying in a little riad in the medina. it’s beautiful, but the wifi is spotty. which is frustrating, because i need to upload these photos. i’ve been relying on cafes with decent connections, but they’re always crowded. This forum has some tips on finding wifi.
i heard that the kasbah is worth exploring, but it’s a bit of a climb. i’m not sure my legs are up for it today. maybe tomorrow. or maybe i’ll just get lost in the medina again. honestly, that sounds pretty good right now.
“The mint tea is good, but the pastries are divine. Don’t skip the pastries.”
that was some drunk advice i got from a guy at a bar last night. he was very insistent about the pastries. i’ll definitely be seeking them out.
i’m starting to think tangier isn’t a place you “do,” it’s a place you feel*. it’s messy, chaotic, and overwhelming, but it’s also incredibly vibrant and alive. it’s a place that gets under your skin and stays with you. and i think i’m falling for it.
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