San Juan: Sweat, Salsa, and Seriously Questionable Street Food
okay, so. san juan. i’m still peeling the humidity off my skin, honestly. it’s… a thick, shimmering blanket right now, hope you like that kind of thing. like, you can practically taste the salt in the air. i just got back from a week there, and i’m already missing the chaos. i’m a touring session drummer, so i’m used to weird places and even weirder people, but this… this was something else.
I was supposed to be laying down some tracks for a local band, “Los Soneros del Sol” - super cool guys, by the way, if you’re into that classic salsa vibe. But, you know, travel happens. Flights get delayed, drumheads explode, and suddenly you’re wandering around *Old San Juan trying to find a decent empanada.
Speaking of which… someone told me that the empanadas at Deaverdura are amazing. Like, life-changing. I tried them. They were… fine. Honestly, I think I just got caught up in the hype. Yelp reviews are a lie, people. A beautiful, delicious lie. Check them out here: https://www.yelp.com/biz/deaverdura-san-juan.
I spent most of my time just… wandering. The colors! The buildings! The sheer energy of the place. It’s overwhelming in the best possible way. I stumbled upon this tiny little art gallery tucked away on a side street - Galería Ponte - and ended up chatting with the owner for like, two hours. He was a sculptor, making these incredible pieces out of driftwood he found on the beach. He said, “The ocean gives, the ocean takes. You just gotta listen.” Deep, right?
I also spent a ridiculous amount of time just sitting in Plaza de Armas, people-watching. There’s a constant stream of tourists, locals, stray cats… it’s a whole ecosystem. I overheard a group of college kids arguing about whether or not to take a salsa dancing lesson. One of them said, “It’s touristy, man! It’s so cliché!” The other one just shrugged and said, “So? I wanna shake my hips.” I was firmly on team shake-your-hips.
My gear list for this trip was surprisingly minimal. Mostly just my drumsticks, a good pair of walking shoes (seriously, you’ll be doing a lot of walking), and a ridiculously large bottle of sunscreen. Oh, and a phrasebook. My Spanish is… rusty, to say the least. I relied heavily on pointing and smiling. It works surprisingly well.
Drumsticks (duh) - Vic Firth 5A, always.
Sunscreen - EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46. Don’t skimp.
Walking shoes - Brooks Ghost 14. My feet thank me.
Phrasebook - Lonely Planet Spanish Phrasebook & Dictionary.
Reusable water bottle - Staying hydrated is key.
I heard that El Morro is a must-see, and it is. The views are incredible. But be warned: it gets crowded. Go early. Like, ridiculously early. Someone also warned me about the pigeons. Apparently, they’re fearless. They’re not kidding.
If you get bored, *Mayagüez and Ponce are just a short drive away. I didn’t make it out there this time, but I’ve heard good things. I’m already planning my return trip. Next time, I’m tackling the bioluminescent bay. Apparently, it’s magical. I’m also going to try and find a real* good empanada. The search continues. Check out TripAdvisor for some ideas: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g60694-San_Juan_Puerto_Rico-Vacations.html.
Oh! And one last thing. Don’t be afraid to get lost. Seriously. Some of my best discoveries were completely accidental. Just wander. Explore. Embrace the chaos. You won’t regret it. And maybe, just maybe, you’ll find a better empanada than I did.
For more Puerto Rico travel inspiration, check out this local forum: https://www.puertorico.gov/
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