San Juan: Humidity, Rum, and Questionable Street Art (My Kind of Chaos)
okay, so i’m back. back from san juan, puerto rico. and honestly? i’m still peeling sunburn off my nose and trying to remember what dry air feels like. i just checked and it's…a thick, clinging blanket of moisture right now. hope you like that kind of thing. because it’s everywhere.
I’m a botanist, you know? I study plants. And let me tell you, san juan is a riot for a plant nerd. Vines are reclaiming everything. Bougainvillea is exploding out of every balcony. It’s beautiful, but also…a little aggressive. Like, the city is actively being swallowed by nature. It’s fascinating. I spent a good hour just staring at a single, enormous mango tree growing out of a crack in the sidewalk. Seriously.
I was there for a conference - something about the resilience of coastal ecosystems (very me) - but mostly i just wandered. Got hopelessly lost. Ate way too much mofongo. And generally embraced the chaos. I stayed in *Río Piedras, which was…an experience. It’s not the touristy part, that’s for sure. It’s real. Raw. And full of character. If you get bored, Bayamón and Caguas are just a short drive away, both with their own distinct vibes.
Someone told me that the best mofongo is at a tiny, unmarked place near the university. Apparently, you have to know someone who knows someone to find it. I didn’t manage it, sadly. I ended up at a place on Yelp that had decent reviews - https://www.yelp.com/biz/el-rancho-restaurant-san-juan - and it was pretty good, but not life-changing.
I did stumble upon some incredible street art though. Seriously, some of the most vibrant, thought-provoking stuff i’ve seen in ages. It’s concentrated in Santurce, which is definitely worth a wander. Just…watch your belongings. I overheard a couple of guys talking about how pickpockets are getting bolder. Drunk advice, probably, but still.
“Don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘special’ tour of the city. They’re probably just trying to sell you something…or worse.”
I spent a ridiculous amount of time in the botanical garden - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g665841-d117888-Reviews-Botanical_Garden_of_the_University_of_Puerto_Rico-Rio_Piedras_Puerto_Rico.html. It’s a sprawling oasis of green in the middle of the city. I could have spent days just wandering around there. They have a crazy collection of orchids. Seriously, crazy*.
I also checked out the local plant nurseries. Found some amazing specimens - a few that i’m definitely trying to smuggle back home (don’t tell anyone). I’m already planning my next trip. I need to go back and explore the rainforest. And maybe finally find that secret mofongo place.
Oh! And a local warned me about the mosquitos. Said they’re relentless, especially after it rains. He wasn’t kidding. Bring bug spray. Lots of it. Seriously. You’ll thank me later. Also, check out this forum for more local tips: https://www.puertorico.gov/forums/.
Basically, san juan is a beautiful, chaotic, humid mess. And i loved every minute of it. Go. Just…go prepared.
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