Porto’s Sticky Secrets & a Whole Lotta Rain
okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. 3398379 and 1076569458… honestly, those numbers just kinda appeared in my notes. felt important, i guess? like a weird password to a city. porto, portugal. it’s… damp. like, aggressively damp. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the temp is 33.04, feels like 33.85, min 33.04, max 33.04. pressure 1011, humidity 40. it’s clinging to everything. my camera, my socks, my sanity.
seriously, the rain. it’s not a gentle drizzle. it’s a persistent, insistent, ‘you’re going to get soaked’ kind of rain. but you know what? it’s kinda beautiful. the way it reflects off the *Ribeira buildings, the way it makes the cobblestones gleam… it’s moody. like a really, really dramatic film noir.
I spent yesterday wandering around the vila nova de gaia district, which is basically a giant, open-air market. it was a sensory overload - spices, seafood, ceramics, and the constant chatter of vendors hawking their wares. someone told me that the best francesinha (a massive, meat-filled sandwich) is at Café Santiago. i didn’t try it, but i heard that… well, let’s just say it’s an experience. i’m not sure i’m brave enough for an experience like that right now.
I stumbled across this tiny little gallery tucked away on a side street - it was showcasing the work of a local artist who uses recycled materials to create these incredible sculptures. it was wild. like, genuinely wild. i’m thinking of trying my hand at that myself, maybe turning my old drumsticks into something… less depressing.
Speaking of drums, i’m a touring session drummer, so naturally, I was looking for a decent place to jam. found a spot called ‘O Barco’ - it’s a tiny, smoky bar with a surprisingly good sound system. the bartender, a guy named Ricardo, gave me some seriously drunk advice about finding the best fado music. he said to “follow the sadness.” which, honestly, is not helpful.
Someone overheard me talking about the rain and said, ‘Porto doesn’t care if you’re miserable. It just is.’ I think that’s pretty accurate.
I’ve been checking out TripAdvisor and Yelp - mostly just to see if anyone else has suffered through the weather like me. apparently, the Livraria Lello is a must-see. it’s supposedly one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. i’ll add it to the list, assuming i’m not completely washed out by the time i get there. I also found a local board with some recommendations for hiking trails - though, let’s be real, hiking in this weather sounds… challenging.
Here’s the gear list, because someone needs to keep track of this chaos:
Waterproof everything (seriously, everything)
A ridiculously large umbrella
A portable charger (my phone is perpetually dying)
A notebook for scribbling down random thoughts and observations
And, of course, my *drumsticks.
If you get bored, Vigo and Braga are just a short drive away.
I’m staying at this Airbnb - it’s a bit quirky, a bit cramped, but it has a great view of the Douro River. The host, Maria, left me a handwritten note with a map and some local tips. She also warned me that the pigeons are aggressive*. Apparently, they’re territorial about the bread crumbs.
I’m heading to the Serralves Museum tomorrow - it’s supposed to have some amazing contemporary art. Hopefully, the rain will hold off. I’m also planning on checking out the Casa da Música, a stunning concert hall designed by Rem Koolhaas. You can find more info here: https://www.casadamusica.pt/.
Seriously, if you’re looking for a city that’s a little bit gritty, a little bit melancholic, and a whole lot of atmospheric, Porto is your place. Just bring an umbrella. And maybe a strong coffee.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/portland-late-night-vibes
- https://votoris.com/post/kyotos-got-a-grip-and-maybe-a-ghost-3
- https://votoris.com/post/cambridges-secret-spots-overheard-whispers-a-filmmakers-lament
- https://votoris.com/post/10-things-you-must-know-before-moving-to-ensenada
- https://votoris.com/post/delhi-heatstroke-unexpected-chai-a-dispatch-from-chaos