Manila Mayhem: Lost in Translation (and Humidity)
okay, so manila. it’s…a lot. i landed with absolutely zero expectations, mostly because i booked this trip on a whim after a particularly brutal gig in *tokyo. i’m a touring session drummer, which basically means i live out of a duffel bag and eat questionable airport food. this time, though, i needed something different. something sticky. something loud.
and sticky it is. the air hits you like a warm, wet blanket the second you step off the plane. i just checked and it’s…a constant hug, apparently. the weather report said 23.88 degrees celsius, but ‘feels like’ 24.65? yeah, that’s about right. it’s the humidity, man. it’s a living thing. pressure’s at 1010, humidity’s a ridiculous 89%, and the air feels thick enough to chew. i’m pretty sure my drumsticks are warping.
i’ve been wandering around intramuros, the walled city, which is kinda cool, but also feels like stepping back in time…and into a sauna. the spanish colonial architecture is impressive, but honestly, i’m more fascinated by the jeepneys. those things are insane! like, mobile art installations powered by sheer willpower and a questionable engine. i tried to take one, but ended up getting hopelessly lost and having to bribe a tricycle driver with a handful of pesos.
someone told me that the traffic is legendary, and they weren’t kidding. it’s less ‘traffic’ and more ‘a permanent state of vehicular chaos’. i overheard a guy at a street food stall (more on that later) complaining that he spent three hours getting to makati yesterday. three hours! i’m starting to think walking is the only viable option.
the food, though…the food is worth the potential heatstroke and traffic-induced anxiety. i’ve been demolishing adobo and sinigang like it’s my job. i found this amazing little carinderia near my guesthouse - it’s basically a tiny hole-in-the-wall with plastic chairs, but the food is incredible. i’m pretty sure the woman running it doesn’t speak a word of english, but we communicate through pointing and enthusiastic nodding. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g298460-Manila.html has some good recommendations, but honestly, the best stuff is always hidden.
my guesthouse is in malate, which is…lively. let’s just say it’s not a quiet neighborhood. there’s karaoke blasting from somewhere at all hours, and the streets are packed with people even at 3 am. if you get bored, tagaytay is just a short bus ride away, apparently. i’ve also heard rumors about a really good vintage market in cubao, but i haven’t had a chance to check it out yet. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Vintage+Stores&find_loc=Manila might be a good starting point.
i’m trying to find some local musicians to jam with, but it’s been tough. i’ve been asking around, but everyone seems to be either incredibly busy or doesn’t understand what a ‘session drummer’ is. i did get some advice from a guy at a bar - he said, “just go to a karaoke place and start playing. someone will notice.” which…sounds terrifying, but also kinda perfect. https://www.lonelyplanet.com/philippines/manila has some info on the music scene, but it’s pretty vague.
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i overheard two tourists complaining about the street vendors being ‘too aggressive’. honestly, i think they just want to make a living. a little politeness goes a long way.
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a local warned me about pickpockets in quiapo market. apparently, it’s a free-for-all. keep your valuables close!
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someone drunkenly advised me to never accept a drink from a stranger. solid advice, honestly.
so yeah, manila. it’s chaotic, it’s humid, it’s loud, and it’s completely overwhelming. but it’s also…kind of amazing. i’m exhausted, sweaty, and slightly lost, but i wouldn’t trade it for anything. i’m gonna go find some more adobo* and try to figure out how to navigate this city without getting run over by a jeepney. wish me luck. and maybe send earplugs.
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