Lost in Semarang: Humidity, Batik, and a Very Confused Cat
okay, so semarang. i didn't really plan to be in semarang. my original route involved a lot more rice paddies and fewer…well, fewer things. but a delayed train and a sudden craving for something other than instant noodles led me here, and honestly? it’s kinda growing on me.
I’m a touring session drummer, you see. My life is a blur of airports, dodgy hotel rooms, and trying to remember which city I’m actually in most of the time. This trip was supposed to be a little downtime, a chance to sketch out some new rhythms, but downtime apparently means getting delightfully lost in a city I know next to nothing about.
The weather? Let’s just say it’s…enthusiastic. I just checked and it's clinging to you like a damp towel right now. Twenty point zero one degrees Celsius, feels like twenty point four nine. Ninety-three percent humidity. You’re basically living in a sauna, but a really interesting sauna filled with the scent of clove cigarettes and something vaguely floral. I’m pretty sure my hair has achieved sentience.
I spent most of yesterday wandering around *Kota Lama, the old Dutch quarter. It’s crumbling in places, but there’s this incredible energy, this sense of history layered on top of…well, everything. I stumbled across a tiny cafe, practically hidden down a side street, and had the best kopi of my life. Seriously. I’m talking life-altering kopi. I’m going to need to find the beans.
Someone told me that the best batik in the city is in Pecinan, the Chinese quarter. Apparently, there’s this one shop, run by a family for generations, that makes the most incredible hand-painted pieces. I haven’t found it yet, but I’m on the hunt. I’m also on the hunt for a decent air conditioner.
I overheard some locals chatting about a hidden temple, Sam Poo Kong, that’s supposed to be amazing. Apparently, it’s a bit of a trek outside the city center, but worth it for the views. I’m adding it to the list. You can check out some reviews on TripAdvisor here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g297714-d164283-Reviews-Sam_Poo_Kong_Temple-Semarang_Central_Java.html.
I also saw a cat. A very confused cat. It was sitting on a pile of old tires, staring intently at a pigeon. It looked like it was contemplating the meaning of existence. I felt a kinship.
If you get bored, Demak and Kendal are just a short drive away - apparently they have some pretty cool beaches. I’m not sure I have the energy for a beach right now, but maybe tomorrow.
I’m staying in a guesthouse near Lawang Sewu. It’s…rustic. Let’s go with rustic. The owner, Ibu Ani, is lovely, though. She keeps offering me tea and trying to teach me Bahasa Indonesia. I’m failing miserably, but she’s very patient. I found a decent review of the area on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Lawang+Sewu&find_loc=Semarang,+Central+Java.
I’m thinking of hitting up a local music venue tonight. I saw a poster for a traditional Javanese gamelan performance. It could be amazing. Or it could be a complete disaster. Either way, it’ll be an experience. I’m also checking out some local busking talent on a forum: https://www.expat.or.id/forums/indonesia-travel-culture/134889-semarang-local-music-scene.html.
I heard that the street food around Taman Sari is incredible, but also incredibly spicy. Apparently, you need to specify “tidak pedas” (not spicy) if you don’t want to spontaneously combust. Good to know.
Right, I’m off to find more kopi* and maybe that elusive batik shop. Wish me luck (and send air conditioning).
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