Lagos Heatstroke & Unexpected Palm Wine: A Dispatch
okay, so lagos. it’s…a lot. i didn’t really plan on lagos, honestly. it was supposed to be accra, but a missed flight and a ridiculously cheap connection later, here i am. sweating. profusely.
i’m a freelance photographer, which basically means i chase light and interesting faces, and lagos has both in spades. it’s just…the light is accompanied by a humidity that feels like a warm, wet hug you can’t escape. i just checked and it’s hovering around thirty-one point five degrees, but feels like someone’s aiming a hairdryer at your soul. the air pressure is kinda weird too, like it’s pressing down on you. i’m pretty sure my camera lens is fogging up just thinking about taking it out for another shoot.
i’ve been staying in a little guesthouse in *lekki. it’s…basic. but the woman who runs it, aunty ifeoma, makes the best jollof rice i’ve ever tasted. seriously. i’m pretty sure it’s laced with magic. she keeps warning me about the traffic, though. apparently, getting anywhere takes approximately three business days.
“Don’t trust the danfos,” she told me, stirring a massive pot of rice. “They’ll take your money and your sanity.”
which, honestly, sounds about right. i’ve seen those yellow buses. they’re…ambitious.
i spent yesterday wandering around balogun market. it was absolute chaos. a beautiful, overwhelming, sensory overload of fabrics, spices, and people. i got completely lost, bartered for a ridiculously bright headscarf (i don’t even wear headscarves), and almost got run over by a man carrying a stack of plantain. it was a good day. i found some amazing vintage fabrics, though. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g318488-Activities-Lagos_Lagos_State.html has some info on the markets, but it doesn’t even begin to capture the energy.
someone told me that the best place to get suya (grilled meat) is from a street vendor near national stadium. apparently, it’s legendary. i haven’t braved it yet, mostly because i’m terrified of getting food poisoning, but also because the thought of navigating that area makes my palms sweat even more. i heard from a fellow traveler that the suya is worth the risk, but also that you need to be prepared to haggle aggressively.
i did, however, stumble upon a tiny bar tucked away in a side street. they served palm wine. it tasted…interesting. kind of like fizzy vinegar. the owner, a guy named emeka, was super friendly and told me all about the local music scene. he recommended checking out a place called freedom park. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Live+Music&find_loc=Lagos%2C+Nigeria might have some reviews, but emeka said yelp isn’t really a thing here.
the neighbors are…loud. in a good way, mostly. there’s always music playing, people chatting, and the constant hum of generators. if you get bored, ibadan and abeokuta* are just a short (and i use that term loosely) drive away. i’ve been trying to find a good local photography collective, but it’s been tough. https://www.lonelyplanet.com/nigeria/lagos has some basic info, but it feels…sanitized. i need the real stuff.
i’m starting to think i need to invest in a portable fan. and maybe a hazmat suit. but honestly? i’m kind of loving it. it’s messy, chaotic, and completely overwhelming, but it’s also incredibly vibrant and full of life. it’s a place that gets under your skin. and i think i’m okay with that. i'm also looking at https://www.nigerianfinder.com/ to find more local events.
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