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La Paz, Bolivia: Altitude, Alpaca Sweaters, and a Whole Lotta Confusion

@Nora Quinn3/5/2026blog

okay, so. la paz. where do i even begin? i’m coming at this as a touring session drummer, which means i’m used to chaos, weird hotel rooms, and surviving on questionable street food. but la paz… la paz is a different level of organized mayhem.


i just checked and it’s… a sort of damp, grey hug right now. thirty-two point two degrees, feels like thirty-two. the pressure’s low, which, you know, explains a lot. i’m breathing like i just ran a marathon uphill. humidity’s surprisingly decent, though. it’s not pleasant, exactly, but it’s not actively trying to drown you in misery.

my mission? find the best damn empanada in the city. seriously. that’s the hill i’m dying on. i’ve been wandering around *El Alto, which is… intense. the market there is something else. a sensory overload of textiles, produce, and the faint smell of llama. i swear, i saw a woman selling live guinea pigs. i didn’t ask questions. i just kept walking.



“Don’t trust the taxis near the airport. They’ll quote you triple the price. Walk a few blocks and hail one from the main street.”


that was drunk advice i got from a guy at a cafe. he seemed to know what he was talking about, even if he was slurring his words and wearing a sombrero indoors.

getting around is… an experience. the cable cars - teleféricos - are amazing, though. seriously, the views are insane. you’re soaring over the whole city, looking down on the sprawling chaos below. it’s like being in a giant, colorful spiderweb. i’ve been using them to hop between neighborhoods. it’s way better than trying to navigate the streets in a taxi.

and the alpaca sweaters! oh my god, the alpaca sweaters. they’re everywhere. i’m pretty sure i’ve gained five pounds just from looking at them. i ended up buying one, obviously. a bright orange one with a llama on it. don’t judge me. it’s warm, it’s ridiculous, and it’s a souvenir.



“The cholitas are the heart of La Paz. Respect their traditional dress and don’t stare.”


that’s something a local warned me about. and she was right. the cholitas - the indigenous women in their bowler hats and layered skirts - are incredible. they’re strong, they’re stylish, and they’re the backbone of this city. i’ve been trying to be as respectful as possible, which is hard when you’re constantly gawking at how amazing they look.

food-wise… it’s been a mixed bag. i’ve had some incredible salteñas (savory pastries filled with meat and vegetables), but also some… questionable street meat. i’m sticking to the cafes for now. i found a little place in Miraflores that makes a mean sopa de maní (peanut soup). seriously, try it. it sounds weird, but it’s delicious. check out their yelp page: https://www.yelp.com/biz/restaurante-el-campesino-la-paz.

if you get bored, Oruro and Cochabamba are just a short drive away. i might take a day trip to Oruro to check out the carnival if i have time.

gear list, because i’m a drummer and that’s what we do:

 noise-canceling headphones (essential for sanity)
portable charger (outlets are… unreliable)
 altitude sickness medication (seriously, don’t skip this)
a good pair of walking shoes (you’ll be doing a lot of walking)
 a phrasebook (my spanish is… rusty)
a reusable water bottle (stay hydrated, people!)
 a small first-aid kit (band-aids, antiseptic wipes, ibuprofen)

pro-tip: learn a few basic phrases in Aymara. the locals will appreciate it. and don’t be afraid to haggle in the markets. it’s expected. i found a great forum with local tips: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Forum/La-Paz-Bolivia/.



“The museums are okay, but the real La Paz is in the streets. Just wander and get lost.”


that’s the best advice i’ve gotten so far. and i think i’m going to take it. i’m off to find another empanada. wish me luck. and maybe send oxygen.

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About the author: Nora Quinn

On a mission to simplify the complex stuff.

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