Kazan, Russia: Where the Air Tastes Like Damp Wool and Unexpected Accordions

okay, so. kazan. i didn't really plan to go to kazan. i was supposed to be in baku, but a series of unfortunate events involving a cancelled flight and a very persuasive hostel owner led me here. and honestly? i’m kinda glad it did. it’s… weird. in a good way, mostly. like, delightfully, unexpectedly weird.

i just checked and it's… a persistent drizzle, clinging to everything like a disappointed ghost. the kind of damp that seeps into your bones. i’m not complaining, though. it adds to the atmosphere. it smells like damp wool and old books. and accordions. seriously, accordions everywhere. i swear i heard one playing a mournful tune coming from a window three blocks over.

my hostel, ‘the wandering babushka’ (seriously, that’s the name), is… an experience. the owner, galina, is a force of nature. she feeds you dumplings whether you want them or not and insists on telling you her life story, which involves a runaway goat and a brief stint as a circus performer. i’m not entirely sure i believe her, but it’s entertaining. you can check out some reviews on TripAdvisor if you're brave: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g298486-Kazan_Tatarstan_Russia-Hotels.html

and the food! oh, the food. i’ve been living on echpochmak - these little savory pastries filled with meat and potatoes. they’re amazing. i found a little place tucked away on *Bauman Street that makes them fresh. it’s not fancy, just a tiny counter with a few stools, but the echpochmak are worth the trip. someone told me that the best ones are made with horse meat, but i haven’t been brave enough to try that yet. i did see a review on Yelp mentioning a place called 'Dachny' that apparently has amazing Tatar cuisine: https://www.yelp.com/biz/dachny-kazan. i’ll have to check it out.

walking around, you get this real sense of two cultures colliding. it’s tatar and russian, obviously, but it’s more than just that. there’s a turkish influence, a persian vibe… it’s a melting pot, but not in a bland, homogenized way. it’s chaotic and vibrant and full of surprises. i stumbled upon this incredible street art scene near Peter the Great Street. some of it is really powerful stuff. i wish i’d brought my sketchbook. i’m thinking of checking out some local art galleries - maybe I’ll find something to take home.

“Don’t trust the pigeons. They’re spies.” - overheard from a very serious-looking man feeding pigeons in Gorkiy Park.

if you get bored, Nizhny Novgorod and Ufa are just a short drive away. i’m considering a day trip to one of them. i’m also trying to learn a few basic phrases in tatar. it’s proving… challenging. i managed to order echpochmak without embarrassing myself too much, which is a win in my book. i found a helpful language exchange forum here: https://www.interpals.net/language-exchange/kzn

“The museums are all lies. Go to the market instead.” - drunk advice from a man selling sunflower seeds.

and the weather… it’s consistently… damp. the humidity is insane. i’m pretty sure my hair has permanently adopted a frizz. i’m also noticing a lot of people wearing these traditional tatar hats, tubeteika*. they’re actually kind of cool. i might have to buy one. i’m also looking for a good coffee shop. apparently, there’s a place called ‘Black Coffee’ that’s supposed to be decent. i’ll update you if i find it. i’m also checking out local forums for recommendations: https://www.kzn.ru/

“Watch out for the trams. They have a mind of their own.” - something a local warned me about while i was staring blankly at a tram track.

kazan isn’t for everyone. it’s gritty and a little rough around the edges. but it’s also real. it’s authentic. and it’s definitely not boring. i’m glad i ended up here. even if it means smelling like damp wool for the next few days.

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