Jerusalem: Dust, Falafel, and a Whole Lotta History (Seriously)
okay, so. jerusalem. where do i even begin? i just got back, and my brain feels like a tangled ball of yarn someone’s cat got into. it’s… a lot. like, a lot a lot. i’m a botanist, right? i’m supposed to be all about the quiet observation of plants, the delicate balance of ecosystems. jerusalem is… not that. it’s a full-on sensory assault in the best, most overwhelming way possible.
I just checked and it's drizzling a bit right now, with a persistent, damp chill. not exactly the scorching desert I was expecting, but hey, at least my hair didn’t frizz into a halo of chaos. the temperature is hovering around 13.25 degrees Celsius, feels like 12.51. pressure’s 1001, humidity’s a solid 72%. basically, pack a sweater. seriously.
Okay, so the history. obviously. you can’t not be steeped in history here. i spent a ridiculous amount of time wandering around the *Old City, just… absorbing. the Western Wall? intense. the Dome of the Rock? breathtaking. the Church of the Holy Sepulchre? a total maze, and i’m pretty sure i accidentally wandered into a private prayer session. sorry, whoever i interrupted.
“Apparently, if you throw a coin into the Pool of Bethesda and make a wish, it’ll come true. But only if you don’t tell anyone you did it. Drunk advice from a guy selling postcards, naturally.”
I spent a good chunk of time in the Garden of Gethsemane. It was surprisingly peaceful, considering the… you know. the whole thing. I was trying to identify some of the local flora - a lot of olive trees, obviously, and some interesting varieties of thyme. I’m putting together a little guide for plant lovers visiting jerusalem, actually. check it out on my website https://www.botanicalwanderings.com/jerusalem-flora when it’s done.
Food. oh god, the food. falafel. shawarma. hummus. i ate my weight in all of it. seriously, i think i gained five pounds just from falafel alone. i found this amazing little place in the Jewish Quarter - it’s called Abu Shukri, and you absolutely have to go. Yelp reviews are glowing, and for good reason. https://www.yelp.com/biz/abu-shukri-jerusalem.
“A local woman warned me about the pigeons in the main square. Apparently, they’re ‘bold’ and ‘will steal your bread.’ I didn’t believe her. I was wrong. Very wrong.”
I also stumbled upon a really cool street art scene in the Musrara neighborhood. It’s a bit off the beaten path, but totally worth it. There’s this one mural of a giant pomegranate - it’s incredible. I’m thinking about doing a whole series on urban botany, documenting the plants that thrive in unexpected places. I’m posting some of my sketches on my Instagram https://www.instagram.com/botanical.ramblings/.
If you get bored, ramallah and bethlehem are just a short drive away. I didn’t have time to get out there this trip, but it’s definitely on the list for next time.
Someone told me that the best time to visit the City of David is early in the morning, before the crowds arrive. Apparently, the light is amazing then. I’ll try that next time. I also heard that the Israel Museum has an incredible collection of ancient artifacts. TripAdvisor says it’s a must-see. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g297233-d188460-Reviews-Israel_Museum-Jerusalem_District.html
Honestly, jerusalem is overwhelming. it’s chaotic. it’s dusty. but it’s also… magical. it’s a place that gets under your skin and stays with you long after you’ve left. Just… be prepared to be challenged. and to eat a lot* of falafel.
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