guwahati: where the brahmaputra humidity hits different

i just touched down in guwahati and the air hit me like a wet blanket that someone forgot to wring out. i'm from the desert so this humidity is a constant reminder that i'm not in kansas anymore. my laptop already feels sluggish and i'm only on day two.

i'm based out of this cafe near the bharalu river? wait, that's not right, it's the brahmaputra obviously. everyone keeps talking about the brahmaputra. i'm sitting in a place called "the coffee collective" or something like that. they have decent wifi but the power goes out every few hours. thank god for my power bank. the owner, a guy named rohit, says it's better in winter. currently it's 26.6°c with 68% humidity according to my phone. feels like... exactly the same? whatever that means. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the humidity here is no joke. i sweat just thinking about thinking. and the monsoon is supposed to start soon, so i'm already dreading it.

here's a quick look at where i'm at:

guwahati is spread out, so you'll need a bike or rickshaws to get around. the traffic is kinda crazy but there's a rhythm to it. i've been using the local bus to get around. it's 10 rupees and a total cultural experience. packed with students and workers. one guy offered me his seat because i was sweating so much. that was sweet.

if you get bored, shillong's misty hills are just a three-hour drive through some winding roads that will make you question your life choices. kaziranga national park is also about four hours away if you want to see rhinos. oh, and if you have time, take a day trip to majuli island. it's the world's largest river island and you can rent a bike there. it's about 2 hours by ferry from nimati ghat. but guwahati itself has its own rhythm.

i heard that the best time to visit the kamakhya temple is early morning before the crowds. someone told me that you can sometimes catch the priests doing rituals and it's pretty intense. i went at 6am and it was already packed. still, the energy is something else. the temple is on a hill and the view of the city is worth the climb. i saw some monkeys trying to steal offerings. here's a view from the temple grounds:

for food, i've been living on momos and aloo puri. there's this one stall near the gs road area that an australian guy i met swore by. he said the guy with the blue cart uses the same water for everything so avoid that one. i stuck to the yellow cart and i haven't gotten sick yet. i also tried the local thali at a place called 'tandoor' on gs road. it was hit or miss. the dal was good but the veggies were oily. i've become obsessed with finding the best jolpan (assamese breakfast). so far, the place near the dispur mall has a decent kheer but the tea is weak.

coworking spaces? there's a place called "workin" that's supposed to be good. i tried it for a day but the ac was broken and it felt like a sauna. now i just hop between cafes. the coffee is strong and sweet like i like it. i also tried a co-living space called 'zostel' but the bed was rock hard and the AC leaked. maybe i'm just picky. i met a freelance graphic designer from bali who's been here for a month. he said the internet is stable if you get a dongle, but the cafe wifi is hit or miss.

i scrolled through Nomad List for tips but some of it is outdated. for example, they said the internet at the airport is fast but it's actually garbage. use a local sim from airtel or jio, that's what i did. i also got a dongle from bsnl but the speeds are meh.

for things to do, the river cruise is kinda touristy but nice at sunset. i booked mine through TripAdvisor and got a decent price. the brahmaputra looks massive. i also walked around the fancy areas like gs road and frankly felt like i was in any indian city. here's a shot from the cruise:

if you're into history, there's the assam state museum which is okay. i heard a rumor that there's a hidden british cemetery somewhere but i couldn't find it. i also visited the srimanta sankardev kalakshetra which is like a cultural complex. it was closed for renovations but i peeked around. the architecture is cool.

for accommodation, i stayed in a hostel near the railway station. it was cheap but loud. next time i'll try one of the boutique hotels in the uzan bazar area. check Yelp for some food options near there. the hostel had a shared kitchen which was nice. i made my own tea sometimes.

the Assam Tourism website has some offbeat treks but you need a permit for some places near the arunachal border. that's on my list for next time.

i've been here a week and i still haven't tried the local beer, but i hear it's strong. maybe tomorrow. i went to a local market and bought some assam tea. it's strong and malty. i'm bringing some home.

overall, guwahati is a mix of chill and chaotic. it's not the cleanest city but the people are nice. the humidity is real but you get used to it. i'm just glad my laptop hasn't died yet. pro tip: carry a bottle of water and a handkerchief at all times. and download offline maps because the signal dies in some areas.

that's all for now. i need to find some wifi to upload this.

guwahati: where the brahmaputra humidity hits different

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