Guam: Humidity, Chamorro Food, and a Whole Lotta Unexpected Vibes
okay, so. guam. i didn’t really plan to go to guam. it was one of those things where my friend, leo, was like, “yo, i’ve got a gig there, need someone to fill in on drums for a week?” and i was like, “sure, why not?” i’m a touring session drummer, remember? Gotta pay the bills somehow.
and wow. just…wow. it’s not what i expected. i thought it’d be all beaches and tourist traps, which, yeah, there’s plenty of that. but there’s also this…pulse. a real, breathing thing. the air is thick, like you’re swimming in it. i just checked and it’s clinging to your skin like a damp hug - a solid 19.26 degrees, feels like 19.43. humidity’s at 84%, so pack accordingly. seriously.
my hotel was…fine. nothing special. but the food? the food is insane. i’ve been mainlining red rice and chicken kelaguen. seriously, google it. it’s like a ceviche, but with coconut and magic. i found this little place in *Hagåtña - can’t remember the name, honestly - but someone told me that the old lady running it makes the best kelaguen on the island. it was…life-changing. I’m already planning a return trip just for that. Check out TripAdvisor for some recommendations, though, because my memory is shot.
I spent a day wandering around Tumon, which is exactly what you’d expect - crowded, lots of shops selling touristy stuff, but also some decent bars. I overheard some drunk advice at one of them: “Don’t go near the Yigo area after dark. Just…don’t.” Not sure what that was about, but it definitely added a little spice to the evening.
I tried to find some live music, but it was surprisingly hard. Leo said there’s a scene, but it’s mostly on the weekends. I did stumble upon this amazing little art gallery in Tamuning though. Seriously, the local artists are incredible. I picked up a print of a latte stone - those ancient stone pillars they used to build houses. It’s a good souvenir, right?
Speaking of souvenirs, I almost bought a Chamorro skirt, but it was way too itchy. I’m not kidding. Someone warned me about that - said they’re beautiful but not exactly comfortable. I’m glad I listened. I did, however, find a killer vintage t-shirt at this little shop near Agana. It’s got a faded picture of a coconut crab on it. Best $15 I’ve spent in ages. You can find some cool stuff on Yelp if you're looking for vintage shops.
If you get bored, Saipan and Rota are just a short flight away. I didn’t have time to go, but I’ve heard they’re pretty different.
Honestly, guam is…weird. In a good way. It’s got this mix of American and Chamorro culture that’s unlike anything I’ve ever experienced. It’s humid, it’s chaotic, and the food is incredible. I’d go back in a heartbeat. Check out this local forum for more insider tips: https://www.guamforum.com/. And if you're looking for more travel inspiration, check out https://www.travelandleisure.com/.
Oh, and one last thing: the mosquitos are brutal*. Bring bug spray. Seriously. You’ll thank me later. Also, I heard that the Chamorro people are incredibly welcoming, and they are. Everyone I met was so friendly and helpful. It made the whole experience even better. I'm already looking at flights back. Maybe I'll even try learning a few Chamorro phrases. Wish me luck!
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