Fargo, North Dakota: Where the Wind Bites and the Stories Are Wilder
okay, so fargo. i didn’t plan to end up here. my van, bless its rusty heart, decided it needed a serious nap somewhere between minneapolis and billings. and fargo, north dakota, it was. not exactly on my ‘top ten destinations’ list, you know? but hey, life throws you curveballs, right? especially when those curveballs are accompanied by a persistent engine knocking sound.
i just checked and it’s…a proper arctic chill right now. hovering around -5.63, feels like -0.75. you’ll want layers. like, serious layers. i’m talking thermal underwear, a parka, and maybe a small yak. the wind is relentless. it’ll steal your breath and your dignity in equal measure.
so, what’s fargo like? honestly? it’s…unexpected. i was expecting endless fields of wheat and polite smiles. and there’s definitely wheat. but there’s also a weird, quirky energy. like a town that’s trying really hard to be normal, but secretly loves being a little bit off-kilter.
my first night, i ended up at this dive bar called the *Plaza Hotel. seriously, check it out. https://www.yelp.com/biz/plaza-hotel-fargo - it’s got that classic, slightly sticky-floored charm. i overheard some locals talking about the Red River flooding again. apparently, it’s a yearly thing. “someone told me that last year, it came right up to the doorstep of the Cass County Courthouse,” a woman with a truly impressive perm confided to her friend. “they had to sandbag the whole thing.”
and the food! oh man. i had the best walleye i’ve ever tasted at a place called Mezzaluna. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g60854-d728886-Reviews-Mezzaluna-Fargo-North-Dakota.html Seriously, go. Get the walleye. Don’t argue.
okay, let’s talk about things to do. besides battling the wind and eating walleye, i mean.
*The Fargo Theatre: Apparently, it’s a beautifully restored art deco movie palace. I didn’t make it, but it’s on the list for next time (assuming my van cooperates). https://www.fargotheatre.com/
*The Plains Art Museum: I spent a surprisingly good afternoon wandering around here. It’s got a decent collection, and the building itself is pretty cool. https://www.plainsart.org/
*Woodchipper Field: You have to see it. It’s a nod to the movie Fargo. It’s just…there. A woodchipper. In a field. It’s wonderfully bizarre.
if you get bored, Grand Forks and Bismarck are just a short drive away. i didn’t make it to either, but i heard they’re…well, they’re more of the same, just further away.
my neighbors, the locals, are…interesting. genuinely friendly, but with a dry wit that takes a minute to get used to. i got some drunk advice from a guy at the Plaza Hotel about where to find the best lefse in town. apparently, Hegnes’ Bakery is the place to go. https://www.hegnesbakery.com/ i haven’t tried it yet, but i’m trusting the advice of a man who was wearing a flannel shirt and smelled faintly of beer and regret.
and a warning: i heard that the North Dakota State Fairgrounds can get a little…rowdy during the fair. apparently, there’s a pie-eating contest that gets intense*.
overall? fargo wasn’t what i expected. it was colder, windier, and weirder. but in a good way. it’s a place that gets under your skin, a place that makes you appreciate a warm cup of coffee and a good story. and maybe a yak.
check out the Fargo-Moorhead Convention & Visitors Bureau for more ideas: https://www.fargomoorhead.org/
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