Dust & Echoes in San Miguel de Allende: A Beat-Up Diary

okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. 3980187… that’s the number of times i’ve said ‘like’ in the last 48 hours. and 1484084843 - honestly, it just feels like a really long, depressing timestamp. i landed in San Miguel de Allende yesterday, and it’s… intense. like, aggressively beautiful intense. the air’s thick with something - maybe dust, maybe regret, maybe just the sheer volume of pastel buildings.

It’s 27.61 degrees, feels like 26.37, temp min 27.61, temp max 27.61, pressure 1007, humidity 15, sea level 1007, grnd level 800. yeah, that’s… specific. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the cobblestones are brutal on my ankles, which is a problem because i’m trying to look effortlessly cool for the ‘gram, you know? it’s a losing battle.

I’m staying in this tiny place - it’s basically a glorified closet - but the courtyard is amazing. there’s this old woman who makes the most incredible pan dulce - she practically throws it at you with a grin. someone told me that she used to be a flamenco dancer, but her knees gave out. i heard that from a guy nursing a margarita at the bar downstairs. he was pretty hammered, so take it with a grain of salt.

Spent the afternoon wandering around the Jardin, dodging selfie sticks and trying to find a decent taco. the tacos here are… fine. not bad, not great. just… there. i’m craving something with a little more oomph. i need a serious spice hit.

I stumbled across this incredible little record store - ‘Discos del Sol’ - it’s crammed full of vinyl and the owner, Ricardo, is a total legend. He’s got this whole collection of obscure Mexican bands, and he actually listened to my terrible attempts at describing what i was looking for. he recommended a band called ‘Los Hermanos,’ and honestly, they’re blowing my mind. check them out: https://www.loshermanos.com.mx/.

Speaking of locals, the neighbors are… interesting. if you get bored, Guanajuato is just a short drive away. there’s this family who lives across the street - the Abuelas - they’re constantly yelling at each other in Spanish, but they always wave when you pass. they seem to be perpetually arguing about something involving tomatoes and a misplaced garden gnome. it’s strangely comforting.

I tried to find a decent coffee shop, but everything seems to be serving this weird, overly sweet concoction. it’s like they’re trying to drown out the city with sugar. i need a proper espresso. i found a place called ‘Café San Miguel’ - it’s okay, but the wifi is atrocious.

I’m thinking of checking out the Mercado San Juan tonight - someone told me it’s a wild experience, but also potentially a rip-off. i’m leaning towards a cautious approach. i’m also considering a ghost tour. i’m not usually into that stuff, but the city has this… vibe. a heavy one. i heard that the old convent is haunted by a nun who died tragically. creepy, right?

Seriously, I need to find a decent burrito. and maybe a shower. and definitely more coffee.

Here’s a map of the area:

Pro-tip: Wear comfortable shoes. Seriously. Like, really comfortable. And bring hand sanitizer. You’ll thank me later. Also, don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘special’ margarita. Just… don’t.

Check out TripAdvisor for some restaurant recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g291867-San_Miguel_de_Allende_Estado_de_Guanajuato.html

And Yelp for some local haunts: https://www.yelp.com/directory/San-Miguel-de-Allende-Mexico

Okay, I’m officially out of energy. Time for another coffee (and maybe a nap).

Dust & Echoes in San Miguel de Allende: A Beat-Up Diary

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About the author: Lucas Grant

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