Dust & Echoes in San Miguel de Allende
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. 4004024… seriously, what even is that number? it just keeps popping into my head. and 1484361423 - feels like a bad omen, honestly. i landed in San Miguel de Allende yesterday, and it’s… intense. like, aggressively beautiful intense. the air’s thick with something - maybe the dust from the surrounding hills, maybe just the sheer volume of pastel buildings.
It’s 22.06, feels like 21.03, temp min 22.06, temp max 22.06, pressure 1016, humidity 27, sea level 1016, grnd level 790. yeah, i checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s a weirdly stable temperature, which is unsettling, to be honest.
I’m staying in this tiny place - it’s basically a converted courtyard, all cobblestones and bougainvillea. the landlord, a guy named Ricardo, keeps offering me pulque. pulque! it tastes like fermented agave, and i’m pretty sure it’s slowly dissolving my sanity, but he’s insistent. he said someone told him I needed to ‘connect with the spirit of the place.’ which, you know, is a little much.
I spent the afternoon wandering around the Jardin, dodging selfie sticks and trying to find a decent taco. the *tacos were good, though. seriously good. I heard that the El Pegaso place is a must-try, but it’s always packed. I ended up at a little stand run by a woman named Elena - she makes the best tacos al pastor I’ve had in ages. she looked like she’d seen a thousand sunsets and probably judged a million tourists.
Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Guadalajara is just a short drive away. Apparently, it’s a total party town. I’m not sure I’m ready for that level of chaos. There’s this old woman who sits on a bench in the Jardin every day, knitting tiny hats for pigeons. she doesn’t say much, just watches the world go by with these incredibly knowing eyes. she gave me a piece of advice - ‘don’t chase the pretty pictures, chase the quiet moments.’ i’m trying to remember that.
I stumbled across this amazing little shop selling vintage textiles - it was a treasure trove. I scored a gorgeous embroidered shawl for a ridiculously low price. the shop owner, a woman named Sofia, was a total character. she claimed to be a former flamenco dancer and a retired spy. i’m taking that with a grain of salt, obviously.
I’m planning on checking out the Mercado San Juan tonight. I heard that they have incredible mole there, but also that it’s a bit of a tourist trap. someone told me to be wary of the overly enthusiastic vendors. i’ll probably just stick to the tacos.
Here’s a quick rundown of my essentials:
*Camera: Canon 5D Mark IV (obviously)
*Notebook & Pen: For capturing all the weirdness.
*Sunglasses: Because the sun is brutal.
*Comfortable Shoes: Seriously, you’ll be doing a lot of walking.
*Spanish Phrasebook: My Spanish is… rudimentary, to say the least.
*Reusable Water Bottle: Stay hydrated, people!
*Small Backpack: For carrying all the essentials.
*Earplugs:* San Miguel can get loud at night.
Seriously, check out TripAdvisor for some restaurant recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g291498-San_Miguel_de_Allende_Jalisco_State.html and Yelp for the local scene: https://www.yelp.com/directory/San-Miguel-de-Allende-Mexico.
I’m heading out to find a decent mezcal bar. wish me luck. and maybe send coffee.
And if you're looking for a good place to stay, check out this Airbnb: https://www.airbnb.com/s/San-Miguel-de-Allende--Mexico
Okay, gotta go. The pulque is calling.
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