Dust & Echoes: A Week in Plovdiv, Bulgaria (Don't Ask)

okay, so, plovdiv. seriously. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 1100365645 and 732770. weird, right? like, i was just trying to find a decent coffee shop and this number popped up in my GPS. it’s a constant low-level hum, this place. the air smells like woodsmoke and something vaguely floral, maybe lavender? the humidity’s clinging to everything - 84% - feels like you’re wrapped in a damp towel. pressure’s 1015, which is…fine, i guess. i’m running on about three hours of sleep and a concerning amount of black tea.

I’m a touring session drummer, so my usual routine involves lugging gear and trying not to break anything. this trip was mostly about wandering, honestly. i’m not one for meticulously planned itineraries. i just…go. i found this incredible little courtyard tucked away behind a crumbling building - it felt like stepping back in time. the temperature’s hovering around 3.41, which is a bit chilly for my liking, but the sun’s doing its best to pretend it’s not.

I spent most of yesterday getting lost in the Old Town. it’s a maze of cobblestone streets and pastel-colored houses. seriously, the colors are insane. someone told me that the Romans built a massive theater here, which is wild. i checked out TripAdvisor and Yelp - the reviews are…mixed. mostly just people saying ‘it’s cute’ and ‘the food is okay.’ someone else said the ‘plovdivian pastries are a must-try, but be warned, they’re intensely sweet.’ i’m not complaining, but i’m also not expecting a Michelin star.

I stumbled across this street artist, Dimitri, who was painting a massive mural on a wall. he was completely absorbed in his work, just humming to himself. he offered me a shot of rakia - the local fruit brandy - and we ended up talking for hours about music and life. he said, and i quote, ‘the city breathes stories, man. you just gotta listen.’ which, you know, is pretty deep for a guy covered in paint.

Speaking of listening, the music scene here is surprisingly vibrant. I caught a live band playing in a basement club last night - it was a mix of Balkan folk and electronic music. it was chaotic, sweaty, and utterly brilliant. i’m trying to capture the vibe in a few tracks for my next EP.

I’m staying in this Airbnb - it’s basically a converted warehouse with exposed brick and a rooftop terrace. it’s a bit rough around the edges, but it’s got character. if you get bored, Sofia is just a short drive away.

Here’s a quick gear list for anyone planning a trip: sturdy shoes (cobblestones are a killer), a reusable water bottle, a universal adapter, and a willingness to get lost. and maybe a bottle of rakia.

I overheard a group of tourists arguing about the best place to eat - one was insisting on trying traditional Bulgarian cuisine, while the other was desperately searching for a decent pizza. i just shrugged and ordered a burek (a flaky pastry filled with cheese or spinach). it was pretty good.

Someone told me that the best way to experience Plovdiv is to ditch the guidebook and just wander. They said you’ll find the real magic in the hidden corners and unexpected encounters. I’m taking that to heart.

I’m heading to the Ancient Stadium next - apparently, it’s the largest Roman stadium in the world. i’m hoping to catch a sunset there.

Seriously, this place is…something. i’m not sure i’m even halfway through processing it yet. i’m going to grab another coffee (black, obviously) and keep exploring. check out this local board for events: https://www.pldiv.bg/events/. And if you're looking for a good place to eat, Yelp has some decent options: https://www.yelp.com/map/plovdiv-bulgaria. And for a little more info on the city's history, TripAdvisor's got you covered: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g293678-Plovdiv_Bulgaria-Vacations.html.

I’m starting to think that number - 732770 and 1100365645 - is a message. a weird, cryptic message. maybe i should start a blog about it. or maybe i should just stick to making music.

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