Dust & Dim Sum: Lost in Dumaguete

okay, so, lemme just say, i’m pretty sure my brain cells are currently staging a full-blown revolt. i’ve been in Dumaguete for… well, it feels like a week, but my watch says it’s been closer to ten days. and honestly? i don’t even care. it’s just… there. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 21.66 degrees, feels like 21.92, humidity’s clinging to me like a damp towel, and the pressure’s… well, it’s 1013. it’s a lot.

Dumaguete. it’s not flashy. it’s not screaming for your attention. it just… is. and that’s kinda the point, you know? i stumbled upon it while trying to avoid a particularly aggressive monsoon season in Cebu, and honestly, it’s been a godsend. the air smells like salt and something vaguely floral - probably the jasmine growing everywhere. it’s a weird, comforting smell.

I’ve been mostly just wandering, fueled by cheap *dim sum and a desperate need for caffeine. i found this amazing little place near the market - ‘Mama’s Kitchen’ - seriously, the pork siomai is a religious experience. check it out: https://www.yelp.com/biz/mamas-kitchen-dumaguete

Speaking of wandering, i spent a ridiculous amount of time yesterday just staring at the University of St. La Salle campus. it’s ridiculously beautiful, all white walls and sprawling lawns. i overheard some students talking about a secret courtyard - something about a hidden fountain and a grumpy groundskeeper. someone told me that the groundskeeper only speaks in riddles. wild.

I’m staying in this ridiculously charming guesthouse called ‘Casa de las Flores’ - it’s basically a jungle of bougainvillea and mismatched furniture. the owner, Lola Elena, is a force of nature. she’s got this incredible collection of vintage postcards and a penchant for telling long, rambling stories about her life. she keeps offering me guava jam, which is… an experience.

a view of a lake and mountains from the top of a hill

I’ve been trying to capture the vibe with my camera, but it’s hard to translate the feeling of this place. it’s not about grand landscapes or dramatic sunsets. it’s about the small things - the sound of the waves, the chatter of the market vendors, the way the light filters through the trees. i’m attempting to document it all, but honestly, it’s a losing battle.

I’m trying to get some shots for my portfolio, but the light is constantly shifting. it’s frustrating, but also… kind of beautiful. i’m thinking of doing a series on the local street food - there’s this incredible binagol, a kind of pork blood pudding, that’s absolutely insane. i heard that the best place to get it is down by the pier, but the vendor only comes out in the evenings.

I’ve been talking to a few locals, and they’ve all given me slightly different advice. one guy, a fisherman named Ben, told me to “follow the scent of the mangoes.” which, honestly, is just… weird. another warned me about the mosquitos - apparently, they’re particularly aggressive at dusk.

green trees near body of water under blue sky during daytime

I’m thinking of heading to Apo Island tomorrow - apparently, it’s a world-class diving spot. i’m not a huge diver, but i’m always up for an adventure. i’ve also been checking out some of the local beaches - Rizal Boulevard is pretty chill, with a constant stream of people strolling along the water. i found a great little cafe there called ‘The Coffee Bean’ - their cold brew is seriously good. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g298462-Dumaguete_NegrosOriental_Region.html

If you get bored, Siquijor is just a short drive away. It’s a bit… intense, but worth a visit if you’re feeling adventurous. Seriously, though, Dumaguete is a good place to just be*. It’s not trying to impress you. it’s just… there. and that’s enough, right? i’m going to go find some more dim sum. wish me luck. and maybe send coffee. a lot of coffee.

Dust & Dim Sum: Lost in Dumaguete

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About the author: Noah Brooks

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