Dust & Diesel: Lost in the Grey of Plovdiv
okay, so, plovdiv. seriously. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s like, a really intense shade of grey, you know? not a bad grey, just…present. like a really committed grey. i landed yesterday, and honestly, my head’s still spinning. i think it’s the altitude, or maybe the sheer volume of ancient stuff crammed into this place. it’s a chaotic beauty, a beautiful chaos.
I was aiming for a chill, ‘documenting the forgotten corners’ vibe, but ended up just wandering around with a half-empty coffee and a growing suspicion that i’d accidentally stumbled into a historical reenactment. the air smells like woodsmoke and something vaguely floral - probably the rose gardens tucked away in the old town. it’s a weird combo, but it works.
My accommodation? a tiny Airbnb above a bakery. the guy, Dimitri, keeps leaving me little pastries. he’s a quiet type, Dimitri. doesn’t say much, just nods and hands you a baklava. it’s…intense. i think he’s judging my playlist.
I spent the morning getting hopelessly lost in the old town, which is basically a labyrinth of cobbled streets and crumbling walls. i swear, i walked past the same fountain three times. it’s got this weird, mossy look, like it’s been weeping for centuries. someone told me that the fountain is actually connected to a network of underground tunnels - used for smuggling back in the day. wild, right? check out more about the city’s history here: https://www.plovdiv.bg/en/
Then, i stumbled upon this incredible street art scene. plovdiv’s apparently a huge deal for murals. it’s not all polished and perfect, though. a lot of it’s raw, gritty, and feels like it’s screaming something. i found this one piece - a giant, decaying lion - that just…haunted me. it was near a little cafe, and the barista, a woman named Elena, gave me a shot of espresso and a warning. "Be careful," she said, her eyes narrowed. "Some of these walls…they remember."
I tried to find a decent burger, and Yelp suggested ‘Meat & Greet’. it was…an experience. let’s just say the beef was aggressively seasoned, and the service was enthusiastic. i heard that the owner, a guy named Stefan, used to be a competitive eater.
Someone told me that Stefan once ate 70 hot dogs in under an hour. I don’t know if that’s true, but it certainly explains the sheer volume of meat.
Speaking of experiences, i spent the afternoon exploring the Roman Stadium. it’s massive, seriously huge. you can still see the markings on the stone. it’s like stepping back in time. i was trying to get some shots for my Instagram, but the light was awful.
I’m seriously considering taking a day trip to Veliko Tarnovo - it’s just a short drive away, according to a local I met at the hostel. they said it’s got a much more dramatic landscape.
My gear list, because why not?
Camera (obviously)
Notebook (mostly filled with doodles)
Too many socks
A slightly broken lens cap
A vague sense of direction
Dimitri’s baklava (still got some left)
Pressure: 1026, humidity: 100. It’s sticky. I’m thinking of investing in a dehumidifier. If you’re planning a trip, check out some TripAdvisor reviews: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g293673-Plovdiv_Bulgaria-Vacations.html
Seriously, though, plovdiv is…a lot. It’s not a place you just ‘visit’. it’s a place you feel. And right now, i’m feeling a whole lot of grey. And baklava. Lots of baklava.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/why-kathmandu-is-ranked-one-of-the-fastest-growing-cities-and-why-that-scares-me
- https://votoris.com/post/the-state-of-unemployment-and-economic-growth-in-ulaanbaatar-a-messy-dive
- https://votoris.com/post/finding-an-englishspeaking-doctor-in-soweto-if-youve-got-a-camera-and-a-hangover
- https://votoris.com/post/sustainability-in-maracaibo-is-this-sweaty-city-actually-trying-to-go-green
- https://votoris.com/post/top-industries-driving-the-economy-of-shymkent-a-dive-into-the-unknown