Dodging Goats and Finding Rhythm in Ibadan
okay, so. ibadan. where do i even begin? i’m elara, by the way, touring drummer for… well, it changes. right now, i’m between gigs, which means i’m bouncing around, chasing humidity and decent coffee. and ibadan delivered on the humidity, let me tell you. i just checked and it’s… a thick, clinging blanket right now, hope you like that kind of thing. thirty-five degrees, feels like thirty-five. pressure’s steady, though, which is nice.
I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. i’d seen a few photos online, mostly of the university, but nothing prepared me for the sheer… energy. it’s a city that moves. a constant hum of activity. i’m staying in a little guesthouse near Bodija Market - chaotic is an understatement. the market itself is a sensory overload. spices, fabrics, shouting vendors… i got completely lost, but in the best possible way.
I spent a good chunk of my first day just wandering, soaking it all in. the architecture is fascinating - a mix of colonial buildings and modern structures, all crammed together. i stumbled upon this incredible little courtyard with a fountain, completely hidden away. felt like i’d discovered a secret.
“Don’t trust the okada drivers after dark,” someone mumbled to me at a suya stand. “They’ll take you anywhere but where you want to go.”
Right. noted. i’m sticking to taxis during the evening, then.
Speaking of food, the suya is amazing. seriously, go find some. i also tried eba and egusi soup - a bit of an acquired taste, but i’m trying to be adventurous. i found a decent little spot on Yelp - https://www.yelp.com/biz/bukateria-ibadan - though the reviews are… mixed. apparently, the pepper level is not for the faint of heart.
I’ve been trying to find some good drumming circles, but it’s proving tricky. i did manage to connect with a local musician, Ade, who plays the talking drum. he’s teaching me a few basic rhythms - it’s humbling, to say the least. my usual rock and roll chops feel… inadequate.
I overheard some serious gossip at a cafe the other day. apparently, there’s a legendary masquerade festival happening just outside the city next month. something about ancient spirits and elaborate costumes. i’m seriously considering going. you can find more info on TripAdvisor - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g313384-Ibadan_Oyo_State-Vacations.html.
“Watch out for the goats,” a woman warned me, while selling plantain chips. “They own the roads.”
She wasn’t kidding. i’ve had to dodge more goats than cars in the last few days. it’s… a unique experience.
If you’re looking for a place that’s off the beaten path, a place that will challenge you and surprise you, ibadan might just be it. it’s not polished, it’s not perfect, but it’s real. and it’s got a rhythm all its own. i’m also checking out some local music forums - https://www.nairaland.com/music - to see if i can find more gigs.
Oh, and if you’re into vintage fabrics, apparently there’s a great market in Aleshinloye. someone told me that you can find incredible deals if you’re willing to haggle. i’m definitely going to check it out tomorrow. if you get bored, lagos and abeokuta are just a short drive away.
okay, gotta go. a rooster just started crowing outside my window. apparently, ibadan doesn’t do sleep.
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