Belo Horizonte: Concrete Jungles and Pastel de Queijo Dreams
okay, so belo horizonte. i didn’t really plan to come here, you know? my van, Beatrice (she’s a temperamental beauty, let me tell you), decided she needed a serious oil change and i was already halfway through Brazil. figured i’d stick around for a bit, see what the fuss was about. and honestly? it’s… interesting.
I’m a touring session drummer, so my life is all about airports and dodgy hotel breakfasts. But even I can appreciate a city that doesn’t scream at you. Belo Horizonte feels…contained. Like a giant, concrete jungle with pockets of unexpected beauty. The weather? I just checked and it's a humid blanket right now, hovering around twenty-eight degrees. Hope you like that kind of thing. It’s the kind of heat that clings to you, you know?
I spent most of my time wandering around the Savassi neighborhood. It’s got this cool, slightly grungy vibe. Lots of little cafes, independent shops, and street art. I stumbled across this amazing little place called Paladino Café - seriously, the coffee there is next level. I’m a bit of a coffee snob, as you might imagine, and they pull a mean espresso. Check out their Yelp page: https://www.yelp.com/biz/paladino-cafe-belo-horizonte. You won't regret it.
“Don’t go near the Mercado Central after dark,” a guy slurring his words told me at a bar last night. “Too many… characters.” He winked. I’m not sure what he meant by ‘characters,’ but I took his advice.
Speaking of markets, I did brave the Mercado Central during the day. It’s… intense. A sensory overload of spices, meats, cheeses, and everything in between. I bought a ridiculous amount of cheese. Like, enough to feed a small army. And pastel de queijo. Oh god, the pastel de queijo. I’m pretty sure I’m going to dream about those little cheese pastries for the rest of my life. Seriously, google it. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g303533-d163878-Reviews-Mercado_Central-Belo_Horizonte_Minas_Gerais.html
I also checked out Pampulha, the architectural complex designed by Oscar Niemeyer. It’s… striking. Very different from anything I’ve seen before. The Igreja de São Francisco de Assis is particularly impressive, even if it was swarming with tourists. I overheard someone complaining that it was “too modern.” Honestly, the audacity.
If you get bored, Ouro Preto and Congonhas are just a short drive away. They’re both historic towns with stunning baroque architecture. I’m thinking of heading there next, if Beatrice cooperates. I found a forum with some good tips on visiting Ouro Preto: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/brazil/minas-gerais/ouropreto/a/poi-sig/403877/359799
Someone told me that the nightlife is surprisingly good here, but I’m too tired to investigate. Drumming gigs take it out of you, you know? Plus, I’m still recovering from the cheese overload.
Honestly, Belo Horizonte isn’t going to blow your mind. It’s not flashy or glamorous. But it’s got a certain charm, a quiet authenticity that I appreciate. It’s a city you can just be in, you know? And sometimes, that’s exactly what you need. I’m also looking into some local busking opportunities, just to keep the funds flowing. Maybe I’ll see you on the street! Check out this local board for music events: https://www.eventbrite.com/d/brazil--belo-horizonte/music/
Okay, gotta go. Beatrice is making a weird noise. Wish me luck.
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